Sunday, October 15, 2006

It’s a Dog’s Life!

In France, dogs are beloved! They’re welcome in shops, restaurants, and just about everywhere except most parks! Why not parks?? My own suspicion is that few owners pick up after their pets, despite a law which imposes a fine of 185 Euros for failing to ‘stoop and scoop’. Judging by what’s left on the sidewalks and streets, enforcement is not a high priority. Stepping outdoors in Paris can be tricky sometimes. Here on Ile St. Louis where the sidewalks are narrow, the human and car traffic heavy, we’re constantly dodging something or someone. The locals seem to have a knack for doing this, especially when it comes to avoiding the deposits left by the dogs! It’s uncanny to watch a local, cell phone at their ear, arms full and walking a top speed, avoid the droppings - almost like there’s a built in GPS system that sparks a ‘poo’ alarm. With the magic cleaning apparatus and early morning gutter washings, the situation does not get completely out of hand.

The dog above belongs to the owner of that butcher shop. He’s there every day making his own selections and keeping customers entertained.



Guarding the car!
I saw him on my way home today .








PC/Oct. ’06 .

Saturday, October 07, 2006

La Nuit Blanche

At night, Paris takes on a completely different look. It sparkles, it shines and even the dreary spots take on a romantic charm! The Eiffle Tower is light up like a Christmas tree and for 20 minutes each hour the thousands of 'fairy lights' twinkle and it looks like magic. Monuments are are lit up and the boats along the Seine have powerful lights that give the city a new look in the dark.

Each year in early October, Paris does an “all nighter”, La Nuit Blanche. Some public buildings and all Museums stay open all night and admission is free and there are concerts and events all over town all night long—imagine viewing the Mona Lisa at midnight, visiting with Picasso at 3:00 am and be entertained at a street concert afterwards. The city is filled with people having a good time and there is something to be had for everyone.

Paul and I watched a show at Notre Dame, saw a performance of fire jugglers, many street performers and a modern dance interpretation on the bridge leading to our street. The people themselves are a show. Sadly, we did not last all night, but heard the revelrie until the very early part of the morning.

Many Parisians don’t like this night because they think it too commercial and find the crowds annoying. As a visitor, it was an interesting diversion and a chance to be part of a festive scene!


PC/October ‘06

Friday, October 06, 2006

A night at a neighborhood bar

Last night we went to the bar just down the street from our apartment--Les Fous des L'Ile. Chris had noticed a sign in the window advertising a young couple singing pop and blues (you can't let her get out of your sight for one minute!).

We got to this cozy little spot about 8:30pm for a 9:00pm performance. The crowd - mostly young French and French/Indian people were in a convivial mood as was the staff. The simple, inexpensive menu featured the type of food you see in Cafes and while I kept my order simple, I was disappointed. I had escargot to start and chicken in the pot to follow - what could go wrong with boiled chicken? Chris had a salad and a cheese plate accompanied by a house Beaujolais.

Chris' salad and cheese plate were fine. So was the escargot, clearly not freshly made, but OK. The chicken was the worst chicken I have ever tasted! It tasted embalmed, not boiled. Even the vegetables (potatoes and a mystery green) were inedible. Only the lone carrot was OK.

The entertainment, however, was absolutely wonderful and made the evening worthwhile. They sang American Pop and Blue songs for two solid hours. The selections were a mixture of familiar and their own material executed beautifully. Their stage presence added to their charm and evoked a lot of reaction from the crowd (the audience was sprinkled with their friends). After three encores they passed the hat for contributions. I felt like we had slipped into the Paris of Ernest Hemingway and his friends.

Why is this woman always busy?

We've now been in Paris for somewhat over one week and it's become clear that while I'm on vacation, Chris is working. This seems to be a wonderful reversal of the traditional roles.

In the time we've been away I've read 4 books; done the crossword puzzle every day; taken long walks and generally had a relaxing time.

Chris, on the other hand is still on her first book; barely starts the Monday puzzle and often wants a nap in the afternoon - but claims to be having a great time! I keep telling her she needs to better manage her time! She tells me to stick it where the sun don't shine. See her comment below ...

THIS IS NOT A HOLIDAY!!!! I keep telling Paul that, but he doesn't listen! This is living our life. Here we are in an apartment where beds have to be made, laundry done and I 'fait de menage'(do the housework)! It's not much different from our routine in NYC except that I now go to school every morning to learn French and then have homework in the afternoon just so that I can keep up--IT'S definitely like working; up at 7:00am and not in bed most nights until midnight! Paul's the one on holiday! In addition, I spend a great deal of time reading guide books and magazines looking for interesting things for us to do. I'm trying my best to delegate responsibility, but he's really good at evasion. My husband training abilities are definitely lacking. What's a girl to do????

I keep telling Chris she has to get her priorities straight so she has more time to relax and enjoy. The truth is her efforts give me the luxury of being able to just do what I want. Is'nt that just like a guy!

Some disappointing experiences in Paris

Some of you may have been wondering why we haven't written about any restaurants since we arrived in Paris. The truth is, we (especially me) have been disappointed by our meals so far. (Paul did say that he enjoyed the home cooked presentations to date so that at least is a positive thing!) Nothing really bad, but nothing exceptional either. Chris tells me it's my fault because I've been lazy and we've just gone to some "old favorites". She's probably right, last year I spent several days researching and making a list of places to go ( I do restaurants; Christina does everything else). That said, some comments on our recent outings:

Au Moulin au Vent
20 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard F - 75005 PARIS
This has been a favorite for it's homey atmosphere, wonderful Grenouilles (Frog's Legs) and meat specialities. We took our friends from Canada (the Honsas) for a typically French meal that would appeal to their tastes. We were very disappointed; they lost our reservation and we had to sit outside (in the rain, albeit under an umbrella) with a view of the parking lot and the noise of street traffic. The good news is we were able to enjoy quiet conversation with good friends dispite the less then efficient service and the feeling that we had been forgetten about; Les Grenouilles were limp and lacking in garlic (although the Escargots were excellent) and the steak (the house speciality) was tasty but gristly. Chris and Vaclev had the lamb which was excellent.

Atelier Maitre Albert
1 rue Maître Albert F - 75005 PARIS
Another favorite. . they specialize in grilled items. I had Veal shank and Chris had the swordfish. Both were good, but not outstanding. The vegetables (grilled rice and cheese) was the best thing. We had a house Beaujolais (carafe) that was good. The service was excellent. This is an interesting spot filled mostly with out of town business people and a few locals. It's minimalist atmosphere may not make you feel like you're in Paris, but the service is friendly, the seating close but not too close and it's worth a trip.

Bofinger
5 rue de la Bastille F - 75004 PARIS
This is a famous Art Deco, Parisian, brasserie specializing in "Coquillage" (shellfish) and "Charcuterie" (Alsatian sausage). We took the Honsas here for a typical Parisian outing. The food was Ok, but nothing special. Chris loved her bulots and Vaclav got his oysters! We sat under the 'dome' and is downstairs--definitely a better place then en haut!

Rotisserie du Beaujolais
15 quai de la Tournelle F - 75005 PARIS
This new restaurant opened by the people from La Tour d'argent as a less costly alternative. It has become very popular in France now as a reaction to the cost of restaurants that satisfy the Michelin requirements for a top restaurant (Tour d'Argent averages about 200 E per person before wine). It specializes in rotisserie items. Both Chris and I had wild Duck, which was tasty but underdone; it did however come on a delicious bed of 'roissti' along with those lovely french green beans. We had another house Beaujolias that was very drinkable. The service here was substandard. We don't mind the slower pace in France but this was just inattentive. It is the only time I wish that I could have used the 'tip' to demonstrate our displeasure.

For the rest of today (and until I finish) I will be researching restaurants for the next five weeks. I don't get any peace until that's done!

Wednesday, September 06, 2006

The del Balso's go to the WEST Side

Some of you have been wondering where we've gotten to lately! It's not that we haven't eaten lately, it's more a matter of having the discipline to sit down at the computer. Maybe with the end of summer, the mood has changed.

Tonight, Chris and I ventured over to West Chelsea to visit a new restaurant (opened in July) specializing in Swiss - New American. The restaurant was lovely and featured a pretty walled garden in the back. We ate in the garden (probably one of the last opportunities this year). The menu is very brief, featuring unusual, rustic, ingredients.

I started with "oxtail and pig's foot terrine with spicy mustard". Both Chris and I prefer coarse-ground country terrines and we loved it. Chris started with "sautéed frog legs with frisée salad". The frogs legs were delicately sauteed - not fried. The waiter had not recommended this choice and we both would have to agree. For the entre, I selected the "roasted pork loin with caramelized carrots". It had been brined and was tender and juicy. The carrots were wonderfully roasted - I have never had anything quite like them. Chris had the "roasted lamb saddle, mustard greens, cipollini onions. She like it but thought the lamb and mustard greens were just 'ordinary'. We had two sides that were quite extraordinary "gratinéed pizokle with onions and gruyere (kind of like spetzl gratinee) and sauteed green beans with speck. They were both delicious and were a highlight of the meal. We had a 2004 Austrian Wachau Riesling that was great (we've been drinking a lot of Riesling lately). For dessert, we shared a walnut tart with cream that was delicious.

We sat in the garden next to two women who had obviously been there before. Chris got into a conversation with them (anybody surprised?) about how attractive the garden was. It turned out one of them was the Chef's mother-in-law and had created the garden area! We learned quite a bit about the chef and his wife, who are both in the business. If you think you might enjoy this, go soon because apparently Frank Bruni had been and plans to put his views in the paper this weekend.

Trestle on 10th
242 10th Ave.(24th St.)
Manhattan, NY 10001
212-645-5659

Sunday, August 27, 2006

Berkshire Weekends

How could it be that the summer is at an end? It's been hot and rainy in the Berkshires this year but there have also been many picture perfect days; you know the ones that lure you to the porch into a favorite chair with a book and a gin and tonic! We've had many of those days, but it's been Paul on the porch with the gin and tonic while I was on my hands and knees in the garden. Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining; we're each in our preferred spots and the good news is that when I'm ready to come inside; a gin and tonic awaits!

This summer we (Christina!) have made a real effort to find and go to new places. The Berkshires has many excellent Music and theater places; and we have ventured to new venues; found some interesting outdoor activities and, as always, eaten in new places. One of my favorite new adventures was two shows at Jacob's Pillow and with my friend Sheila. Neither of us had ever been and we thoroughly enjoyed performances of Flamenco dancing and an amazing group from Montreal called "The Rubberband Dance Group". The performance is hard to describe--a combination of hip hop, ballet, martial arts, and modern dance. Music and arrangements run from traditional to new music and from what I saw an audience of mixed ages all seemed to really enjoy the evening, as did we.

In keeping with our "restaurant challenge", we've recently enjoyed three different spots:

Brix Wine Bar in Pittsfield--this cozy little Bistro on West Street has light Bistro fare with over 40 different wines by the glass. The zinc bar is authentic, but has standing room only. It's the perfect spot for a quick bite before a show or a late night snack and a good place to sample some interesting wines.

Oeno in West Stockbridge--has an interesting menu and also a very good wine selection by the glass. We were there with friends and enjoyed the appetizers better than dinner. Service was VERY slow especially given the small number of people there that night.

The Old Inn on the Green in New Marlborough--is a charming old country restaurant which Zagat's gives a 26 for food! The setting is extremely romantic with only candlelight in each of the intimate dining areas and weather permitting, you can enjoy the terrace. Our meal was excellent from start to finish. How can you miss starting with the likes of Maine peekytoe crab salad and crispy veal sweetbreads, followed by seared tuna and my a my alltime favorite, calves liver (I know this might not appeal to others in the same way, but it makes my mouth water). This is even a spot where there might be room for some cheese or dessert should you be in the mood! If you're planning a trip this way, check out their website: www.oldinn.com for rooms and restaurant specials.

Thursday, July 20, 2006

Whole Foods - a new paradigm for food stores

I am not an "organics zealot". In fact, for many years I have consciously avoided organic food as over-priced and low quality (at least in appearance). Therefore, I was indifferent to the opening of the first Whole Foods in Chelsea-Manhattan. However, I have completely changed my mind and now view Whole Foods as a paradigm shift in food shopping equivalent to that of Starbucks on coffee shops.

Whole Foods markets are large, modern stores that combine the best of traditional grocery and 'gourmet' stores. They are committed to organic and natural foods including fresh fruits, vegetables and meat and fish. They also have a large, high quality cheese selection. An area where they are exceptional is prepared foods. This includes a Sushi Bar, a Cafe and a Salad Bar in addition to the typical prepared foods counters. There is also a large, attractively laid out area with tables. Beyond the physical plant, the stores are distinguished by employees who are knowledgeable, courteous, friendly and committed to the mission of the company. This has been true in every store I have visited (Florida, Texas and Omaha in addition to NY).

I thinkWhole Foods offers a substantial improvement to other food stores because of the way it combines an outstanding shopping experience with a clear and easily understood commitment to natural foods, grown in a way that minimally impacts the environment. This is combined with a commitment to buy locally to enhance freshness. and an educational outreach program intended to promote healthful eating through information. There are classrooms in every store!

Overall, I believe Whole Foods reflects a real change in peoples expectations about how food is marketed. Wal-Mart and the traditional supermarkets are reacting and will provide more choice in where, and how, foods are procured. I believe Whole Foods advantage is sustainable, however, because it reflects a true commitment to values that are shared by a growing number of americans. I also believe that, while competition for traditional groceries will increase Whole Foods focus on higher value prepared foods will continue to command a premium, especially among more affluent shoppers. The stores also offer very attractive eating facilities - a Sushi Bar, a Starbuck-like Cafe (with better food!) and a cafeteria. It will be exceptionally difficult for other stores to duplicate the quality of these offerings. For example, Christina and I will go there for lunch because they have better salads (quality and variety) than almost anywhere else. We then usually do our shopping and have it delivered while we're out.

An Open Letter to John Mackey, CEO Whole Foods

Paul del Balso
16 Sutton Place
New York, New York 10022


July 20, 2006
Mr; John Mackey,
Chairman and CEO
Whole Foods Market, Inc.
550 Bowie Street
Austin, Texas 78703-4677

I am a customer and stockholder of Whole Foods – in that order. In general I endorse your Core Value to “Sell the Highest Quality Natural and Organic Products Available”. In that context, I look to Whole Foods to act as an intermediary in acquiring these products in an ethical fashion and am motivated by the wonderful selection of fresh, packaged and prepared foods in beautiful stores staffed by some of the most knowledgeable and committed employees anywhere. We live in New York and shop at the new store at Time-Warner. We love the store but find it a little hectic at times.

I was especially impressed on a recent business trip to Omaha. We went to the store for both breakfast and lunch and were pleasantly surprised by the selection and presentation of foods, especially cheeses that we had not seen much of elsewhere in Omaha. We also had a very interesting conversation with the “Barista” who was also the coffee buyer. Her enthusiasm and excitement left us feeling like members of a privileged group – Whole Foods customers.

I am not an organics “zealot” but strongly support sustainable agriculture and survival of local growers and suppliers. I wouldn’t want to be limited to only what’s in season in NY, but would want to see local growers promoted when available. As an educated consumer I have read most of the recent articles that have challenged the “industrial” organics industry’s commitment, and yours, to organic principles. I have also read your Open Letter to Michael Pollan and his response to you. I must admit I was disappointed with both. Your letter boils down to “ I consider myself the national spokesperson for Organics and am shocked that you don’t trust me to do the right thing in evaluating and making trade-offs in acquiring produce. Furthermore, you (Pollan) have shown incredibly bad taste in not talking to us before writing your book, and in comparing us to Walmart.” His response boils down to “ No, I don’t trust you. Your principles are overruled by your bigness and I know this because I have many friends in the traditional organics business and they are angry with you.”

Unfortunately, neither of those lengthy letters helps me as a consumer. I am dependent on you to make those trade-offs in a way I would support. I have to trust you. There is no other viable alternative at this point, To that end I look carefully at the products in the store to see where they originate. One of the easiest products for me to evaluate is cheese. New England and New York are major producers of artisinal cheeses but I do not see the same variety of local cheeses in your stores as I do in cheese specialty shops. I find this troubling and would appreciate some feedback on your cheese procurement practices in the New York area. Specifically, who do you buy from, and why.

In closing, I remain an interested customer, consumer and partner of your company and look forward to being reassured that you are living by your principles.


Paul del Balso

Toqueville

We went to a new restaurant last night - Toqueville at Union Square. They call themselves "French-American", probably because they prepare typically American dishes with a French flair. The menu is very interesting and features local ingredients. They have an interesting website that has pictures of the appetizers and entrees. The room is attractive, uncluttered with good spacing between the tables for four or more. Tables along the side are reminiscent of the tight fit we find in Paris. However, my taste runs more to "cozy" with wood and leather. This is more "modern" with metal and glass.

I began with Chilled Spring Pea Soup with Peeky Toe Crab that was refreshing; although I thought a piece of crab meat would have been better than a clump of shredded meat. Chris loves Sardines so finding them on the menu was a good start. They were marinated and served with shaved Fennel--delicious and not at all salty.

We were both feeling "fowl" so the Squab with broccoli and Chanterelles and the Poularde (young spayed chicken hen), also with Chanterelles and pureed peas were a great choices! Taste was good, but the temperature not hot enough. Chris also did not enjoy the consistency of the pureed peas (a very personal taste). Our wine selection was a white Burgundy (a lovely Chassagne Monrachet). We enjoyed it so much that we tracked some down today to enjoy at home.

We try hard never to look at the dessert menu but this day, shared a homemade assortment of ice cream which included one made with Basil (unusual but very tasty). Espresso was good and in true French style, there was a small plate of chocolates and sweets.

All in all, I found the food was good but the menu was better. They need to put as much effort into preparation as they do in creating the menu and the web-site.

Tocqueville
1 E. 15th St.(bet. 5th Ave. & Union Sq. W.)
Manhattan, NY 10003
212-647-1515

Zagats says...
Dignified dining carries on at this understated, absolutely adult Union Square French-American where chef Marco Moreira's brilliant menu meets the highest standards; sure, you'll pay for it, but the calming ambiance and your-wish-is-their-command service more than justifies the high tabs; N.B. a recent move to larger digs puts its Decor score in question.

Friday, June 30, 2006

Eleven Madison Park

We went to Eleven Madison Park for dinner, Chris was leaving for the World Cup with Scott the next day to see two World Cup games. Scott got the tickets through his office. They are going to see Germany play Italy in the semi-finals! She (and Scott) are bonkers with excitement. We can't get on an elevator without her telling someone about it.

We decided to go to Eleven Madison Park, a very nice restaurant that I had not been to since it opened some years ago. I hadn't been back because I just didn't like the feel of the room. It's high ceilings and windows remind me of a cafeteria (St. Clair's in Parkchester!). Obviously, the Zagats reviewers are not from the East Bronx.

They offer a number of Prix-Fixe menus ranging from $89 to a $115 Seasonal Tasting Menu. We stayed with the "basic" $89 which was fine.

We started with;
Frogs Legs with Poached Egg - outstanding, small and delicate and not too buttery.
Potato Gnocchi with Squash Flowers and Lemon Confit - really delicate dumplings. One of Chris favorites.

And followed with;
Suckling Pig with Cippollini Onions - absolutely wonderful, tender meat with a hint of grilled onion. Not heavy at all.
Ribeye with Bone Marrow, Peas and Carrots - good, but not as good as my Suckling Pig. A little boring.

Cheese course - nice selection of cheeses.
Warm Blueberries with Pecan financier and Caramel Ice Cream - good.

Wine: 2003 Cote de Beaune - very good

All told, an excellent meal. After a Martini and the wine I forgot I was eating in a cafeteria! They started with a very nice "amuse-bouche" that had five separate tastes. One was a raw oyster. I let Christina have mine since I know how much she loves oysters. She was up all night with diarrhea!

Eleven Madison Park
11 Madison Ave.(24th St.)
Manhattan, NY 10010
212-889-0905

Zagats says...
A “shining star” in the city’s “culinary galaxy”, Danny Meyer’s “fine-tuned” New American on Madison Square Park continues to produce “exquisite” cuisine backed by a “fabulous wine list” and a “smashing” art deco interior featuring “breathtaking vaulted ceilings”; add in “unobtrusive”, “mind-reading” service and it’s clear why this is a “favorite place to splurge.”