Thursday, July 20, 2006

Whole Foods - a new paradigm for food stores

I am not an "organics zealot". In fact, for many years I have consciously avoided organic food as over-priced and low quality (at least in appearance). Therefore, I was indifferent to the opening of the first Whole Foods in Chelsea-Manhattan. However, I have completely changed my mind and now view Whole Foods as a paradigm shift in food shopping equivalent to that of Starbucks on coffee shops.

Whole Foods markets are large, modern stores that combine the best of traditional grocery and 'gourmet' stores. They are committed to organic and natural foods including fresh fruits, vegetables and meat and fish. They also have a large, high quality cheese selection. An area where they are exceptional is prepared foods. This includes a Sushi Bar, a Cafe and a Salad Bar in addition to the typical prepared foods counters. There is also a large, attractively laid out area with tables. Beyond the physical plant, the stores are distinguished by employees who are knowledgeable, courteous, friendly and committed to the mission of the company. This has been true in every store I have visited (Florida, Texas and Omaha in addition to NY).

I thinkWhole Foods offers a substantial improvement to other food stores because of the way it combines an outstanding shopping experience with a clear and easily understood commitment to natural foods, grown in a way that minimally impacts the environment. This is combined with a commitment to buy locally to enhance freshness. and an educational outreach program intended to promote healthful eating through information. There are classrooms in every store!

Overall, I believe Whole Foods reflects a real change in peoples expectations about how food is marketed. Wal-Mart and the traditional supermarkets are reacting and will provide more choice in where, and how, foods are procured. I believe Whole Foods advantage is sustainable, however, because it reflects a true commitment to values that are shared by a growing number of americans. I also believe that, while competition for traditional groceries will increase Whole Foods focus on higher value prepared foods will continue to command a premium, especially among more affluent shoppers. The stores also offer very attractive eating facilities - a Sushi Bar, a Starbuck-like Cafe (with better food!) and a cafeteria. It will be exceptionally difficult for other stores to duplicate the quality of these offerings. For example, Christina and I will go there for lunch because they have better salads (quality and variety) than almost anywhere else. We then usually do our shopping and have it delivered while we're out.

An Open Letter to John Mackey, CEO Whole Foods

Paul del Balso
16 Sutton Place
New York, New York 10022


July 20, 2006
Mr; John Mackey,
Chairman and CEO
Whole Foods Market, Inc.
550 Bowie Street
Austin, Texas 78703-4677

I am a customer and stockholder of Whole Foods – in that order. In general I endorse your Core Value to “Sell the Highest Quality Natural and Organic Products Available”. In that context, I look to Whole Foods to act as an intermediary in acquiring these products in an ethical fashion and am motivated by the wonderful selection of fresh, packaged and prepared foods in beautiful stores staffed by some of the most knowledgeable and committed employees anywhere. We live in New York and shop at the new store at Time-Warner. We love the store but find it a little hectic at times.

I was especially impressed on a recent business trip to Omaha. We went to the store for both breakfast and lunch and were pleasantly surprised by the selection and presentation of foods, especially cheeses that we had not seen much of elsewhere in Omaha. We also had a very interesting conversation with the “Barista” who was also the coffee buyer. Her enthusiasm and excitement left us feeling like members of a privileged group – Whole Foods customers.

I am not an organics “zealot” but strongly support sustainable agriculture and survival of local growers and suppliers. I wouldn’t want to be limited to only what’s in season in NY, but would want to see local growers promoted when available. As an educated consumer I have read most of the recent articles that have challenged the “industrial” organics industry’s commitment, and yours, to organic principles. I have also read your Open Letter to Michael Pollan and his response to you. I must admit I was disappointed with both. Your letter boils down to “ I consider myself the national spokesperson for Organics and am shocked that you don’t trust me to do the right thing in evaluating and making trade-offs in acquiring produce. Furthermore, you (Pollan) have shown incredibly bad taste in not talking to us before writing your book, and in comparing us to Walmart.” His response boils down to “ No, I don’t trust you. Your principles are overruled by your bigness and I know this because I have many friends in the traditional organics business and they are angry with you.”

Unfortunately, neither of those lengthy letters helps me as a consumer. I am dependent on you to make those trade-offs in a way I would support. I have to trust you. There is no other viable alternative at this point, To that end I look carefully at the products in the store to see where they originate. One of the easiest products for me to evaluate is cheese. New England and New York are major producers of artisinal cheeses but I do not see the same variety of local cheeses in your stores as I do in cheese specialty shops. I find this troubling and would appreciate some feedback on your cheese procurement practices in the New York area. Specifically, who do you buy from, and why.

In closing, I remain an interested customer, consumer and partner of your company and look forward to being reassured that you are living by your principles.


Paul del Balso

Toqueville

We went to a new restaurant last night - Toqueville at Union Square. They call themselves "French-American", probably because they prepare typically American dishes with a French flair. The menu is very interesting and features local ingredients. They have an interesting website that has pictures of the appetizers and entrees. The room is attractive, uncluttered with good spacing between the tables for four or more. Tables along the side are reminiscent of the tight fit we find in Paris. However, my taste runs more to "cozy" with wood and leather. This is more "modern" with metal and glass.

I began with Chilled Spring Pea Soup with Peeky Toe Crab that was refreshing; although I thought a piece of crab meat would have been better than a clump of shredded meat. Chris loves Sardines so finding them on the menu was a good start. They were marinated and served with shaved Fennel--delicious and not at all salty.

We were both feeling "fowl" so the Squab with broccoli and Chanterelles and the Poularde (young spayed chicken hen), also with Chanterelles and pureed peas were a great choices! Taste was good, but the temperature not hot enough. Chris also did not enjoy the consistency of the pureed peas (a very personal taste). Our wine selection was a white Burgundy (a lovely Chassagne Monrachet). We enjoyed it so much that we tracked some down today to enjoy at home.

We try hard never to look at the dessert menu but this day, shared a homemade assortment of ice cream which included one made with Basil (unusual but very tasty). Espresso was good and in true French style, there was a small plate of chocolates and sweets.

All in all, I found the food was good but the menu was better. They need to put as much effort into preparation as they do in creating the menu and the web-site.

Tocqueville
1 E. 15th St.(bet. 5th Ave. & Union Sq. W.)
Manhattan, NY 10003
212-647-1515

Zagats says...
Dignified dining carries on at this understated, absolutely adult Union Square French-American where chef Marco Moreira's brilliant menu meets the highest standards; sure, you'll pay for it, but the calming ambiance and your-wish-is-their-command service more than justifies the high tabs; N.B. a recent move to larger digs puts its Decor score in question.