How could it be that the summer is at an end? It's been hot and rainy in the Berkshires this year but there have also been many picture perfect days; you know the ones that lure you to the porch into a favorite chair with a book and a gin and tonic! We've had many of those days, but it's been Paul on the porch with the gin and tonic while I was on my hands and knees in the garden. Don't get me wrong, I'm not complaining; we're each in our preferred spots and the good news is that when I'm ready to come inside; a gin and tonic awaits!
This summer we (Christina!) have made a real effort to find and go to new places. The Berkshires has many excellent Music and theater places; and we have ventured to new venues; found some interesting outdoor activities and, as always, eaten in new places. One of my favorite new adventures was two shows at Jacob's Pillow and with my friend Sheila. Neither of us had ever been and we thoroughly enjoyed performances of Flamenco dancing and an amazing group from Montreal called "The Rubberband Dance Group". The performance is hard to describe--a combination of hip hop, ballet, martial arts, and modern dance. Music and arrangements run from traditional to new music and from what I saw an audience of mixed ages all seemed to really enjoy the evening, as did we.
In keeping with our "restaurant challenge", we've recently enjoyed three different spots:
Brix Wine Bar in Pittsfield--this cozy little Bistro on West Street has light Bistro fare with over 40 different wines by the glass. The zinc bar is authentic, but has standing room only. It's the perfect spot for a quick bite before a show or a late night snack and a good place to sample some interesting wines.
Oeno in West Stockbridge--has an interesting menu and also a very good wine selection by the glass. We were there with friends and enjoyed the appetizers better than dinner. Service was VERY slow especially given the small number of people there that night.
The Old Inn on the Green in New Marlborough--is a charming old country restaurant which Zagat's gives a 26 for food! The setting is extremely romantic with only candlelight in each of the intimate dining areas and weather permitting, you can enjoy the terrace. Our meal was excellent from start to finish. How can you miss starting with the likes of Maine peekytoe crab salad and crispy veal sweetbreads, followed by seared tuna and my a my alltime favorite, calves liver (I know this might not appeal to others in the same way, but it makes my mouth water). This is even a spot where there might be room for some cheese or dessert should you be in the mood! If you're planning a trip this way, check out their website: www.oldinn.com for rooms and restaurant specials.
Sunday, August 27, 2006
Thursday, July 20, 2006
Whole Foods - a new paradigm for food stores
I am not an "organics zealot". In fact, for many years I have consciously avoided organic food as over-priced and low quality (at least in appearance). Therefore, I was indifferent to the opening of the first Whole Foods in Chelsea-Manhattan. However, I have completely changed my mind and now view Whole Foods as a paradigm shift in food shopping equivalent to that of Starbucks on coffee shops.
Whole Foods markets are large, modern stores that combine the best of traditional grocery and 'gourmet' stores. They are committed to organic and natural foods including fresh fruits, vegetables and meat and fish. They also have a large, high quality cheese selection. An area where they are exceptional is prepared foods. This includes a Sushi Bar, a Cafe and a Salad Bar in addition to the typical prepared foods counters. There is also a large, attractively laid out area with tables. Beyond the physical plant, the stores are distinguished by employees who are knowledgeable, courteous, friendly and committed to the mission of the company. This has been true in every store I have visited (Florida, Texas and Omaha in addition to NY).
I thinkWhole Foods offers a substantial improvement to other food stores because of the way it combines an outstanding shopping experience with a clear and easily understood commitment to natural foods, grown in a way that minimally impacts the environment. This is combined with a commitment to buy locally to enhance freshness. and an educational outreach program intended to promote healthful eating through information. There are classrooms in every store!
Overall, I believe Whole Foods reflects a real change in peoples expectations about how food is marketed. Wal-Mart and the traditional supermarkets are reacting and will provide more choice in where, and how, foods are procured. I believe Whole Foods advantage is sustainable, however, because it reflects a true commitment to values that are shared by a growing number of americans. I also believe that, while competition for traditional groceries will increase Whole Foods focus on higher value prepared foods will continue to command a premium, especially among more affluent shoppers. The stores also offer very attractive eating facilities - a Sushi Bar, a Starbuck-like Cafe (with better food!) and a cafeteria. It will be exceptionally difficult for other stores to duplicate the quality of these offerings. For example, Christina and I will go there for lunch because they have better salads (quality and variety) than almost anywhere else. We then usually do our shopping and have it delivered while we're out.
Whole Foods markets are large, modern stores that combine the best of traditional grocery and 'gourmet' stores. They are committed to organic and natural foods including fresh fruits, vegetables and meat and fish. They also have a large, high quality cheese selection. An area where they are exceptional is prepared foods. This includes a Sushi Bar, a Cafe and a Salad Bar in addition to the typical prepared foods counters. There is also a large, attractively laid out area with tables. Beyond the physical plant, the stores are distinguished by employees who are knowledgeable, courteous, friendly and committed to the mission of the company. This has been true in every store I have visited (Florida, Texas and Omaha in addition to NY).
I thinkWhole Foods offers a substantial improvement to other food stores because of the way it combines an outstanding shopping experience with a clear and easily understood commitment to natural foods, grown in a way that minimally impacts the environment. This is combined with a commitment to buy locally to enhance freshness. and an educational outreach program intended to promote healthful eating through information. There are classrooms in every store!
Overall, I believe Whole Foods reflects a real change in peoples expectations about how food is marketed. Wal-Mart and the traditional supermarkets are reacting and will provide more choice in where, and how, foods are procured. I believe Whole Foods advantage is sustainable, however, because it reflects a true commitment to values that are shared by a growing number of americans. I also believe that, while competition for traditional groceries will increase Whole Foods focus on higher value prepared foods will continue to command a premium, especially among more affluent shoppers. The stores also offer very attractive eating facilities - a Sushi Bar, a Starbuck-like Cafe (with better food!) and a cafeteria. It will be exceptionally difficult for other stores to duplicate the quality of these offerings. For example, Christina and I will go there for lunch because they have better salads (quality and variety) than almost anywhere else. We then usually do our shopping and have it delivered while we're out.
An Open Letter to John Mackey, CEO Whole Foods
Paul del Balso
16 Sutton Place
New York, New York 10022
July 20, 2006
Mr; John Mackey,
Chairman and CEO
Whole Foods Market, Inc.
550 Bowie Street
Austin, Texas 78703-4677
I am a customer and stockholder of Whole Foods – in that order. In general I endorse your Core Value to “Sell the Highest Quality Natural and Organic Products Available”. In that context, I look to Whole Foods to act as an intermediary in acquiring these products in an ethical fashion and am motivated by the wonderful selection of fresh, packaged and prepared foods in beautiful stores staffed by some of the most knowledgeable and committed employees anywhere. We live in New York and shop at the new store at Time-Warner. We love the store but find it a little hectic at times.
I was especially impressed on a recent business trip to Omaha. We went to the store for both breakfast and lunch and were pleasantly surprised by the selection and presentation of foods, especially cheeses that we had not seen much of elsewhere in Omaha. We also had a very interesting conversation with the “Barista” who was also the coffee buyer. Her enthusiasm and excitement left us feeling like members of a privileged group – Whole Foods customers.
I am not an organics “zealot” but strongly support sustainable agriculture and survival of local growers and suppliers. I wouldn’t want to be limited to only what’s in season in NY, but would want to see local growers promoted when available. As an educated consumer I have read most of the recent articles that have challenged the “industrial” organics industry’s commitment, and yours, to organic principles. I have also read your Open Letter to Michael Pollan and his response to you. I must admit I was disappointed with both. Your letter boils down to “ I consider myself the national spokesperson for Organics and am shocked that you don’t trust me to do the right thing in evaluating and making trade-offs in acquiring produce. Furthermore, you (Pollan) have shown incredibly bad taste in not talking to us before writing your book, and in comparing us to Walmart.” His response boils down to “ No, I don’t trust you. Your principles are overruled by your bigness and I know this because I have many friends in the traditional organics business and they are angry with you.”
Unfortunately, neither of those lengthy letters helps me as a consumer. I am dependent on you to make those trade-offs in a way I would support. I have to trust you. There is no other viable alternative at this point, To that end I look carefully at the products in the store to see where they originate. One of the easiest products for me to evaluate is cheese. New England and New York are major producers of artisinal cheeses but I do not see the same variety of local cheeses in your stores as I do in cheese specialty shops. I find this troubling and would appreciate some feedback on your cheese procurement practices in the New York area. Specifically, who do you buy from, and why.
In closing, I remain an interested customer, consumer and partner of your company and look forward to being reassured that you are living by your principles.
Paul del Balso
16 Sutton Place
New York, New York 10022
July 20, 2006
Mr; John Mackey,
Chairman and CEO
Whole Foods Market, Inc.
550 Bowie Street
Austin, Texas 78703-4677
I am a customer and stockholder of Whole Foods – in that order. In general I endorse your Core Value to “Sell the Highest Quality Natural and Organic Products Available”. In that context, I look to Whole Foods to act as an intermediary in acquiring these products in an ethical fashion and am motivated by the wonderful selection of fresh, packaged and prepared foods in beautiful stores staffed by some of the most knowledgeable and committed employees anywhere. We live in New York and shop at the new store at Time-Warner. We love the store but find it a little hectic at times.
I was especially impressed on a recent business trip to Omaha. We went to the store for both breakfast and lunch and were pleasantly surprised by the selection and presentation of foods, especially cheeses that we had not seen much of elsewhere in Omaha. We also had a very interesting conversation with the “Barista” who was also the coffee buyer. Her enthusiasm and excitement left us feeling like members of a privileged group – Whole Foods customers.
I am not an organics “zealot” but strongly support sustainable agriculture and survival of local growers and suppliers. I wouldn’t want to be limited to only what’s in season in NY, but would want to see local growers promoted when available. As an educated consumer I have read most of the recent articles that have challenged the “industrial” organics industry’s commitment, and yours, to organic principles. I have also read your Open Letter to Michael Pollan and his response to you. I must admit I was disappointed with both. Your letter boils down to “ I consider myself the national spokesperson for Organics and am shocked that you don’t trust me to do the right thing in evaluating and making trade-offs in acquiring produce. Furthermore, you (Pollan) have shown incredibly bad taste in not talking to us before writing your book, and in comparing us to Walmart.” His response boils down to “ No, I don’t trust you. Your principles are overruled by your bigness and I know this because I have many friends in the traditional organics business and they are angry with you.”
Unfortunately, neither of those lengthy letters helps me as a consumer. I am dependent on you to make those trade-offs in a way I would support. I have to trust you. There is no other viable alternative at this point, To that end I look carefully at the products in the store to see where they originate. One of the easiest products for me to evaluate is cheese. New England and New York are major producers of artisinal cheeses but I do not see the same variety of local cheeses in your stores as I do in cheese specialty shops. I find this troubling and would appreciate some feedback on your cheese procurement practices in the New York area. Specifically, who do you buy from, and why.
In closing, I remain an interested customer, consumer and partner of your company and look forward to being reassured that you are living by your principles.
Paul del Balso
Toqueville
We went to a new restaurant last night - Toqueville at Union Square. They call themselves "French-American", probably because they prepare typically American dishes with a French flair. The menu is very interesting and features local ingredients. They have an interesting website that has pictures of the appetizers and entrees. The room is attractive, uncluttered with good spacing between the tables for four or more. Tables along the side are reminiscent of the tight fit we find in Paris. However, my taste runs more to "cozy" with wood and leather. This is more "modern" with metal and glass.
I began with Chilled Spring Pea Soup with Peeky Toe Crab that was refreshing; although I thought a piece of crab meat would have been better than a clump of shredded meat. Chris loves Sardines so finding them on the menu was a good start. They were marinated and served with shaved Fennel--delicious and not at all salty.
We were both feeling "fowl" so the Squab with broccoli and Chanterelles and the Poularde (young spayed chicken hen), also with Chanterelles and pureed peas were a great choices! Taste was good, but the temperature not hot enough. Chris also did not enjoy the consistency of the pureed peas (a very personal taste). Our wine selection was a white Burgundy (a lovely Chassagne Monrachet). We enjoyed it so much that we tracked some down today to enjoy at home.
We try hard never to look at the dessert menu but this day, shared a homemade assortment of ice cream which included one made with Basil (unusual but very tasty). Espresso was good and in true French style, there was a small plate of chocolates and sweets.
All in all, I found the food was good but the menu was better. They need to put as much effort into preparation as they do in creating the menu and the web-site.
Tocqueville
1 E. 15th St.(bet. 5th Ave. & Union Sq. W.)
Manhattan, NY 10003
212-647-1515
Zagats says...
Dignified dining carries on at this understated, absolutely adult Union Square French-American where chef Marco Moreira's brilliant menu meets the highest standards; sure, you'll pay for it, but the calming ambiance and your-wish-is-their-command service more than justifies the high tabs; N.B. a recent move to larger digs puts its Decor score in question.
I began with Chilled Spring Pea Soup with Peeky Toe Crab that was refreshing; although I thought a piece of crab meat would have been better than a clump of shredded meat. Chris loves Sardines so finding them on the menu was a good start. They were marinated and served with shaved Fennel--delicious and not at all salty.
We were both feeling "fowl" so the Squab with broccoli and Chanterelles and the Poularde (young spayed chicken hen), also with Chanterelles and pureed peas were a great choices! Taste was good, but the temperature not hot enough. Chris also did not enjoy the consistency of the pureed peas (a very personal taste). Our wine selection was a white Burgundy (a lovely Chassagne Monrachet). We enjoyed it so much that we tracked some down today to enjoy at home.
We try hard never to look at the dessert menu but this day, shared a homemade assortment of ice cream which included one made with Basil (unusual but very tasty). Espresso was good and in true French style, there was a small plate of chocolates and sweets.
All in all, I found the food was good but the menu was better. They need to put as much effort into preparation as they do in creating the menu and the web-site.
Tocqueville
1 E. 15th St.(bet. 5th Ave. & Union Sq. W.)
Manhattan, NY 10003
212-647-1515
Zagats says...
Dignified dining carries on at this understated, absolutely adult Union Square French-American where chef Marco Moreira's brilliant menu meets the highest standards; sure, you'll pay for it, but the calming ambiance and your-wish-is-their-command service more than justifies the high tabs; N.B. a recent move to larger digs puts its Decor score in question.
Friday, June 30, 2006
Eleven Madison Park
We went to Eleven Madison Park for dinner, Chris was leaving for the World Cup with Scott the next day to see two World Cup games. Scott got the tickets through his office. They are going to see Germany play Italy in the semi-finals! She (and Scott) are bonkers with excitement. We can't get on an elevator without her telling someone about it.
We decided to go to Eleven Madison Park, a very nice restaurant that I had not been to since it opened some years ago. I hadn't been back because I just didn't like the feel of the room. It's high ceilings and windows remind me of a cafeteria (St. Clair's in Parkchester!). Obviously, the Zagats reviewers are not from the East Bronx.
They offer a number of Prix-Fixe menus ranging from $89 to a $115 Seasonal Tasting Menu. We stayed with the "basic" $89 which was fine.
We started with;
Frogs Legs with Poached Egg - outstanding, small and delicate and not too buttery.
Potato Gnocchi with Squash Flowers and Lemon Confit - really delicate dumplings. One of Chris favorites.
And followed with;
Suckling Pig with Cippollini Onions - absolutely wonderful, tender meat with a hint of grilled onion. Not heavy at all.
Ribeye with Bone Marrow, Peas and Carrots - good, but not as good as my Suckling Pig. A little boring.
Cheese course - nice selection of cheeses.
Warm Blueberries with Pecan financier and Caramel Ice Cream - good.
Wine: 2003 Cote de Beaune - very good
All told, an excellent meal. After a Martini and the wine I forgot I was eating in a cafeteria! They started with a very nice "amuse-bouche" that had five separate tastes. One was a raw oyster. I let Christina have mine since I know how much she loves oysters. She was up all night with diarrhea!
Eleven Madison Park
11 Madison Ave.(24th St.)
Manhattan, NY 10010
212-889-0905
Zagats says...
A “shining star” in the city’s “culinary galaxy”, Danny Meyer’s “fine-tuned” New American on Madison Square Park continues to produce “exquisite” cuisine backed by a “fabulous wine list” and a “smashing” art deco interior featuring “breathtaking vaulted ceilings”; add in “unobtrusive”, “mind-reading” service and it’s clear why this is a “favorite place to splurge.”
We decided to go to Eleven Madison Park, a very nice restaurant that I had not been to since it opened some years ago. I hadn't been back because I just didn't like the feel of the room. It's high ceilings and windows remind me of a cafeteria (St. Clair's in Parkchester!). Obviously, the Zagats reviewers are not from the East Bronx.
They offer a number of Prix-Fixe menus ranging from $89 to a $115 Seasonal Tasting Menu. We stayed with the "basic" $89 which was fine.
We started with;
Frogs Legs with Poached Egg - outstanding, small and delicate and not too buttery.
Potato Gnocchi with Squash Flowers and Lemon Confit - really delicate dumplings. One of Chris favorites.
And followed with;
Suckling Pig with Cippollini Onions - absolutely wonderful, tender meat with a hint of grilled onion. Not heavy at all.
Ribeye with Bone Marrow, Peas and Carrots - good, but not as good as my Suckling Pig. A little boring.
Cheese course - nice selection of cheeses.
Warm Blueberries with Pecan financier and Caramel Ice Cream - good.
Wine: 2003 Cote de Beaune - very good
All told, an excellent meal. After a Martini and the wine I forgot I was eating in a cafeteria! They started with a very nice "amuse-bouche" that had five separate tastes. One was a raw oyster. I let Christina have mine since I know how much she loves oysters. She was up all night with diarrhea!
Eleven Madison Park
11 Madison Ave.(24th St.)
Manhattan, NY 10010
212-889-0905
Zagats says...
A “shining star” in the city’s “culinary galaxy”, Danny Meyer’s “fine-tuned” New American on Madison Square Park continues to produce “exquisite” cuisine backed by a “fabulous wine list” and a “smashing” art deco interior featuring “breathtaking vaulted ceilings”; add in “unobtrusive”, “mind-reading” service and it’s clear why this is a “favorite place to splurge.”
Thursday, June 29, 2006
A night with friends at L'Impero
I went to L'Impero last week with a group of friends from my Pfizer days. It was really great to see "old friends" and talk about "old times". It was clear that. while I miss the people, I don't miss the work - or what it has become. I was lucky to have been there during some of the most exciting times - the building of an organization and a business. The last several years have been focused on "rightsizing" the organization after two large acquisitions and a dearth of significant new products. It has also been a period of stockmarket stagnation (Pfizer stock is less than half its high of 6 years ago). It's critical to be lucky as well as good!
We went to a very well regarded restaurant within walking distance from both the office and my apartment. L'Impero is lovely with a great bar and terrace. The menu is interesting featuring a number of unique items. Unfortunately, I wasn't in a very experimental mood and I stayed pretty traditional:
Crispy Sweetbread Fricassee - summer vegetables and truffled spinach puree
Slow Roasted Veal Chop - snap pea-shallot stufato and preserved lemons
Followed by
Torta di Ricotta - citrus salad and pistachio lime gelato
My tradtional Double Espresso.
We had a very nice Italian red wine that I cannot remember.
Everything was really well prepared especially the Sweetbreads. How m uch can you do with a Veal chop?
My only criticism is the restaurant is so focused on being trendy it lost sight of the dining experience - it was crowded and noisy.
L'Impero
45 Tudor City Pl.(bet. 42nd & 43rd Sts.)
Manhattan, NY 10017
212-599-5045
Zagats says...
“Artful” chef Scott Conant’s “glorious riffs” on Italian fare are the “stuff of dreams” at this “elegant” Tudor City outpost, a “high-end”, “grown-up” respite where the “sleek”, “modern” setting is matched by “polished”, “simpatico” service; it’s imperially “expensive”, but the $64 prix fixe is such an “incredible deal” that most “can’t wait to go back.”
We went to a very well regarded restaurant within walking distance from both the office and my apartment. L'Impero is lovely with a great bar and terrace. The menu is interesting featuring a number of unique items. Unfortunately, I wasn't in a very experimental mood and I stayed pretty traditional:
Crispy Sweetbread Fricassee - summer vegetables and truffled spinach puree
Slow Roasted Veal Chop - snap pea-shallot stufato and preserved lemons
Followed by
Torta di Ricotta - citrus salad and pistachio lime gelato
My tradtional Double Espresso.
We had a very nice Italian red wine that I cannot remember.
Everything was really well prepared especially the Sweetbreads. How m uch can you do with a Veal chop?
My only criticism is the restaurant is so focused on being trendy it lost sight of the dining experience - it was crowded and noisy.
L'Impero
45 Tudor City Pl.(bet. 42nd & 43rd Sts.)
Manhattan, NY 10017
212-599-5045
Zagats says...
“Artful” chef Scott Conant’s “glorious riffs” on Italian fare are the “stuff of dreams” at this “elegant” Tudor City outpost, a “high-end”, “grown-up” respite where the “sleek”, “modern” setting is matched by “polished”, “simpatico” service; it’s imperially “expensive”, but the $64 prix fixe is such an “incredible deal” that most “can’t wait to go back.”
Wednesday, June 14, 2006
Ocean Grill
Rencently, we had lunch at the Ocean Grill with friends after a mid-day talk at the 92nd Street Y about FDR and the Holocaust. The menu was sort of asian-fusion seafood. The sushi rolls were fresh as was all the fish we ordered and the service was friendly and attentive. We liked it so much in fact, that we decided to go back for dinner a few days later after a reception at the Natural History Museum (AMNH) - it's right across the street. What a mistake! We couldn't get an outside table, and inside every table was filled. Unlike our experience at lunch, everything tasted re-heated and the service was slow and forgetful (getting a menu took 20 minutes, they never brought the asked-for lime or poured the wine after the first glass). Three times they tried to bring us something for another table (at one point the waitress asked Paul if
he wanted a knife for the Maki rolls). Even the bread that had been exceptional at lunch was dry and hard this night.
As we said, the fish here is fresh and very good. Chris enjoyed her oyster starter and the warm 'Thai filet mignon maki roll' was tasty. For her entre, Chris selected the 'wasabi-sesame crusted tuna with crispy shrimp wontons' that Paul had had for lunch previously. The tuna was well prepared and delicious, but the 'crispy wontons' tasted as if they had been saved from another day and refried that night. Paul had the 'oven roasted Chilean sea bass with crispy falafel' which was OK. The fish was perfectly prepared but seemed to lack flavor; probably because the sauce was all on the 'crispy falafel' that was much too seasoned. We accompanied it with a Reisling Kabinett that was nice but not the best choice for this meal since it was a tad sweet. The espresso following our meal was quite good, but lacked the delicious plate of sweets that were offered to us during our lunchtime experience.
This might be a better place for lunch when the kitchen and the staff are less stressed especially if you can snag an outdoor table on a beautiful day.
Ocean Grill
384 Columbus Ave.(bet. 78th & 79th Sts.)
Manhattan, NY 10024
212-579-2300
Zagats says
Cast your net no further than this winsome West Side poisson palace where the seafood couldn't be fresher and there's a plentiful raw bar too; though the brunch is very popular, whether it's too noisy or just a good buzz is up to you.
he wanted a knife for the Maki rolls). Even the bread that had been exceptional at lunch was dry and hard this night.
As we said, the fish here is fresh and very good. Chris enjoyed her oyster starter and the warm 'Thai filet mignon maki roll' was tasty. For her entre, Chris selected the 'wasabi-sesame crusted tuna with crispy shrimp wontons' that Paul had had for lunch previously. The tuna was well prepared and delicious, but the 'crispy wontons' tasted as if they had been saved from another day and refried that night. Paul had the 'oven roasted Chilean sea bass with crispy falafel' which was OK. The fish was perfectly prepared but seemed to lack flavor; probably because the sauce was all on the 'crispy falafel' that was much too seasoned. We accompanied it with a Reisling Kabinett that was nice but not the best choice for this meal since it was a tad sweet. The espresso following our meal was quite good, but lacked the delicious plate of sweets that were offered to us during our lunchtime experience.
This might be a better place for lunch when the kitchen and the staff are less stressed especially if you can snag an outdoor table on a beautiful day.
Ocean Grill
384 Columbus Ave.(bet. 78th & 79th Sts.)
Manhattan, NY 10024
212-579-2300
Zagats says
Cast your net no further than this winsome West Side poisson palace where the seafood couldn't be fresher and there's a plentiful raw bar too; though the brunch is very popular, whether it's too noisy or just a good buzz is up to you.
Friday, June 09, 2006
A Voce
Normally we shy away from the new 'in' spots mainly because getting a table without booking at least a month in advance is impossible. This time we got lucky with a reservation for ourselves and our neighbor's the Malvagnas. 'A Voce', newly opened with a Northern Italian menu was buzzing when we arrived. The decor is clean and polished with lots of dark wood a lovely bar and tables that are well spaced.
There were many things to intrigue us on the creative menu; for starters we selected an interesting presentation of veal meatballs, a three meat ravioli, and a lamb bolognese papparadelle with mint. The meatballs were unusual and delicious and Chris liked the papparadelle so much, she ordered it for her entre. Both Joe and Paul thought it was good, but felt that the mint was a little strong.
Paul had the chicken cacciatore which was unlike any he had ever had before. The chicken pieces were very tender and just lightly coated with the cacciatore sauce, served over mashed potatoes that soaked up the juices. Joe and Sheila enjoyed the duck breast which was beautifully prepared and a serving of black sea bass in a flavorful clam broth which included lots of crunchy croutons. Sides included broccoli rabe and and crispy potatoes that didn't live up to the rave reviews we had read. A couple of bottles of a 2003 Morgan Syrah rounded out our meal. Our only complaint was that some of the plates seemed like they were prepared too far in advance and weren't hot enough. Hopefully, this will improve as they work out the kinks. All in all a fun place and a fine meal.
A Voce
Gramercy Park 41 Madison Ave.(26th St.)
Manhattan, NY 10010
212-545-8555
Zagats preview:
In a corporate, ultramodern setting off Madison Square Park, chef Andrew Carmellini (ex Cafe Boulud) dishes up the savory flavors of the Italian table; though it can be ridiculously loud (the name translates as "by word of mouth"), its authentic cooking, attentive service and cool swivel chair seating all add up to sophisticated dining; N.B. a lemon tree-lined piazza provides a chic summertime rendezvous.
NY Times Review ***
There were many things to intrigue us on the creative menu; for starters we selected an interesting presentation of veal meatballs, a three meat ravioli, and a lamb bolognese papparadelle with mint. The meatballs were unusual and delicious and Chris liked the papparadelle so much, she ordered it for her entre. Both Joe and Paul thought it was good, but felt that the mint was a little strong.
Paul had the chicken cacciatore which was unlike any he had ever had before. The chicken pieces were very tender and just lightly coated with the cacciatore sauce, served over mashed potatoes that soaked up the juices. Joe and Sheila enjoyed the duck breast which was beautifully prepared and a serving of black sea bass in a flavorful clam broth which included lots of crunchy croutons. Sides included broccoli rabe and and crispy potatoes that didn't live up to the rave reviews we had read. A couple of bottles of a 2003 Morgan Syrah rounded out our meal. Our only complaint was that some of the plates seemed like they were prepared too far in advance and weren't hot enough. Hopefully, this will improve as they work out the kinks. All in all a fun place and a fine meal.
A Voce
Gramercy Park 41 Madison Ave.(26th St.)
Manhattan, NY 10010
212-545-8555
Zagats preview:
In a corporate, ultramodern setting off Madison Square Park, chef Andrew Carmellini (ex Cafe Boulud) dishes up the savory flavors of the Italian table; though it can be ridiculously loud (the name translates as "by word of mouth"), its authentic cooking, attentive service and cool swivel chair seating all add up to sophisticated dining; N.B. a lemon tree-lined piazza provides a chic summertime rendezvous.
NY Times Review ***
Tuesday, June 06, 2006
Our local Italian restaurant - Felidia
Felidia is a wonderful northern Italian restaurant in a townhouse on East 58th Street. The chef, Lidia Bastianich, is the well known star of 'Lidia's Family Table' on PBS. The menu is quite interesting, featuring specialties of Friuli-Venezia-Giulia.
The service was excellent. The captain was very knowledgeable and made all the dishes sound wonderful. We were three people, and debated back and forth about our choices. Our final decision to forego the soft-shell crab appetizer resulted in a surprise treat by the chef of a shared order on a bed of two colour pasta--it was wonderful!
Chris and I don't usually order the same food (so we can try different things) but this time we both started with fried zucchini flowers stuffed with goat cheese and served with a tangy tomato dipping sauce. They were exceptional. Our neighbour, Jane enjoyed a seafood appetizer with a particularly delicious calimari. For our entrees, Christina selected one of her all time favourite menu items--calves liver. It was the best we have ever seen, or eaten. The perfectly pink morsels were layered atop a leek and polenta pancake which looked so appetizing it made even my mouth water. Jane and I both selected the quail "Saltimbocca" and were not disappointed. It included the breast meat rolled in ham and the wings and legs separately. Not having room for any dessert, we opted to finish with espresso and of course had a nibble or two of the delicious confections served on the side.
It was pretty clear that we were true members of "the clean plate club" which delighted the staff especially given that on Sundays the sous-chef, Peter is in charge. We couldn't imagine a better meal.
The one significant shortcoming was the sommelier. Felidia has an exceptional list of Italian wines, many of which are new to me. In the past, the wine captain had always had interesting wines to recommend that were much more reasonable than the Brunellos that were familiar to me. This time, despite much prodding of the "18 year old" captain we got the feeling that we were asking the impossible. In fact, the wine we ultimately had was quite ordinary. How lucky is that this is within walking distance of where we live.
Felidia
East 50s 243 E. 58th St.(bet. 2nd & 3rd Aves.)
Manhattan, NY 10022
212-758-1479
Zagats says
Creativity abounds at chef Lidia Bastianich's beautiful East Side townhouse, where wonderful pastas and other authentic Italian dishes are matched by a fantastic wine list; the prices can be intimidating, but its inviting decor and top-notch service have customers cheering brava Lidia!
The service was excellent. The captain was very knowledgeable and made all the dishes sound wonderful. We were three people, and debated back and forth about our choices. Our final decision to forego the soft-shell crab appetizer resulted in a surprise treat by the chef of a shared order on a bed of two colour pasta--it was wonderful!
Chris and I don't usually order the same food (so we can try different things) but this time we both started with fried zucchini flowers stuffed with goat cheese and served with a tangy tomato dipping sauce. They were exceptional. Our neighbour, Jane enjoyed a seafood appetizer with a particularly delicious calimari. For our entrees, Christina selected one of her all time favourite menu items--calves liver. It was the best we have ever seen, or eaten. The perfectly pink morsels were layered atop a leek and polenta pancake which looked so appetizing it made even my mouth water. Jane and I both selected the quail "Saltimbocca" and were not disappointed. It included the breast meat rolled in ham and the wings and legs separately. Not having room for any dessert, we opted to finish with espresso and of course had a nibble or two of the delicious confections served on the side.
It was pretty clear that we were true members of "the clean plate club" which delighted the staff especially given that on Sundays the sous-chef, Peter is in charge. We couldn't imagine a better meal.
The one significant shortcoming was the sommelier. Felidia has an exceptional list of Italian wines, many of which are new to me. In the past, the wine captain had always had interesting wines to recommend that were much more reasonable than the Brunellos that were familiar to me. This time, despite much prodding of the "18 year old" captain we got the feeling that we were asking the impossible. In fact, the wine we ultimately had was quite ordinary. How lucky is that this is within walking distance of where we live.
Felidia
East 50s 243 E. 58th St.(bet. 2nd & 3rd Aves.)
Manhattan, NY 10022
212-758-1479
Zagats says
Creativity abounds at chef Lidia Bastianich's beautiful East Side townhouse, where wonderful pastas and other authentic Italian dishes are matched by a fantastic wine list; the prices can be intimidating, but its inviting decor and top-notch service have customers cheering brava Lidia!
Monday, May 22, 2006
Capsouto Freres
This is a great restaurant for "fun" French food. It's in a bright old warehouse building at the western edge of Manhattan. The staff is delightful - friendly and attentive and they're willing to make adjustments to the menu. You can even park on the street nearby (I first went here when I lived in Riverdale).
They offer a reasonably priced "menu" at dinner ($35), Lunch ($24) and brunch ($25). They also have a "souffle bar" at Brunch and Lunch.
We decided to go for an early dinner this week. Both Chris and I had the special, Softshell crabs and thought they were delicious. We asked to omit the the accompanying mashed potatoes opting for a mixture of sauteed green vegetables. Unfortunately, the sauce served with the crabs was too thick and heavy--the good news is the sauce was just at the side. Chris liked her vegetable terrine starter, but my "Saucisson Lyon' (large garlic sausage in a pastry crust) was cold and unappetizing.
We shared a blood-orange Souffle for dessert that was wonderful. So was the expresso.
The bottom line is I keep going back to this restaurant because it seems like it should be wonderful - a nice space with an interesting menu and a great staff - all at a reasonable price. And Zagats gives it a respectable 23 for Food. This is not a place for gourmet dining with the sometimes inconsistent food and the heavy sauces. Some of the food tastes like it was prepared much earlier and warmed over--but, if you choose carefully, you can have a decent meal.
Zagats says...
Located halfway to Joisey in the middle of nowhere (aka west TriBeCa), this glorious oasis of civility has delivered delicious French bistro fare for decades; its pretty, red brick-walled high-ceilinged room provides all the creature comforts, with unpretentious yet delightful service icing the cake.
Capsouto Freres
TriBeCa 451 Washington St.(Watts St.)
Manhattan, NY 10013
212-966-4900
They offer a reasonably priced "menu" at dinner ($35), Lunch ($24) and brunch ($25). They also have a "souffle bar" at Brunch and Lunch.
We decided to go for an early dinner this week. Both Chris and I had the special, Softshell crabs and thought they were delicious. We asked to omit the the accompanying mashed potatoes opting for a mixture of sauteed green vegetables. Unfortunately, the sauce served with the crabs was too thick and heavy--the good news is the sauce was just at the side. Chris liked her vegetable terrine starter, but my "Saucisson Lyon' (large garlic sausage in a pastry crust) was cold and unappetizing.
We shared a blood-orange Souffle for dessert that was wonderful. So was the expresso.
The bottom line is I keep going back to this restaurant because it seems like it should be wonderful - a nice space with an interesting menu and a great staff - all at a reasonable price. And Zagats gives it a respectable 23 for Food. This is not a place for gourmet dining with the sometimes inconsistent food and the heavy sauces. Some of the food tastes like it was prepared much earlier and warmed over--but, if you choose carefully, you can have a decent meal.
Zagats says...
Located halfway to Joisey in the middle of nowhere (aka west TriBeCa), this glorious oasis of civility has delivered delicious French bistro fare for decades; its pretty, red brick-walled high-ceilinged room provides all the creature comforts, with unpretentious yet delightful service icing the cake.
Capsouto Freres
TriBeCa 451 Washington St.(Watts St.)
Manhattan, NY 10013
212-966-4900
Saturday, May 13, 2006
Not-so-Prime Steakhouse
Prime Steakhouse & Grill
Franklin St.
Lenox, MA 01240
(413) 637-2998 (413) 637-989415
http://http://www.primelenox.com/enox.com/
Franklin St.
Lenox, MA 01240
(413) 637-2998 (413) 637-989415
http://http://www.primelenox.com/enox.com/
Monday, May 08, 2006
What were they doing in OMAHA!!
Christina and I recently went to Omaha for the Berkshire Hathaway Annual Meeting. This is the so-called "Woodstock for Capitalists" where Warren Buffett, the "Oracle of Omaha" and his sidekick "Charlie Munger" preside over a meeting with an attendance of over 24,000. On the day of the annual meeting itself, they take questions from the audience for almost 6 hours--no other company or CEO does anything even close to this.
The meeting lasts the entire weekend beginning with a cocktail party in a huge Berkshire-owned jewelry/gift shop and ends with brunch at the same store on Sunday. Stockholders are offered discounts of up to 30% on all the high-end brand name merchandise (Cartier, Baccarat, Lladro, etc.). Saturday is devoted to the formal meeting and Q&A session. It begins with a humorous movie poking fun at Buffett and Munger and introducing all the companies they own. The theme this year was Buffett's 75th birthday and featured appearances by a parade of stars and celebrities - including Jamie Lee Curtis, Bill Gates, and the whole cast from Desperate Housewives. The attendees include many families who have owned Berkshire stock for up to 50 years and attend as a sort of family outing. There are also students who have studied Buffett and Berkshire eagerly taking notes in the audience, as well as representatives from the traditional analyst community and journalists. The questions though mostly came from individuals and range from the Company's planned succession to what their thoughts are on the current boom/bust in real estate.
You may wonder why we would attend the annual meeting of a company that was in OMAHA! Well, this isn't just any meeting. Ever since we began reading the now famous "letters to the investors" that Warren Buffet sends to his shareholders every year, we've wondered what it would be like to attend one of these gatherings. Well, this past weekend we found out. This is the biggest event seen in the city and we discovered the importance of making hotel reservations EARLY. The downtown hotels are sold out often a year in advance. We managed to find rooms at Harrah's Casino in nearby Council Bluffs, Iowa--an experience in itself!
At times the weekend resembled a revival meeting with Buffett and his longtime partner (and Vice Chairman) Charlie Munger offering as much investment philosophy as specific answers. Some of the very candid responses included:
Bottom line? We'll be back next year! But for one day less.
The meeting lasts the entire weekend beginning with a cocktail party in a huge Berkshire-owned jewelry/gift shop and ends with brunch at the same store on Sunday. Stockholders are offered discounts of up to 30% on all the high-end brand name merchandise (Cartier, Baccarat, Lladro, etc.). Saturday is devoted to the formal meeting and Q&A session. It begins with a humorous movie poking fun at Buffett and Munger and introducing all the companies they own. The theme this year was Buffett's 75th birthday and featured appearances by a parade of stars and celebrities - including Jamie Lee Curtis, Bill Gates, and the whole cast from Desperate Housewives. The attendees include many families who have owned Berkshire stock for up to 50 years and attend as a sort of family outing. There are also students who have studied Buffett and Berkshire eagerly taking notes in the audience, as well as representatives from the traditional analyst community and journalists. The questions though mostly came from individuals and range from the Company's planned succession to what their thoughts are on the current boom/bust in real estate.
You may wonder why we would attend the annual meeting of a company that was in OMAHA! Well, this isn't just any meeting. Ever since we began reading the now famous "letters to the investors" that Warren Buffet sends to his shareholders every year, we've wondered what it would be like to attend one of these gatherings. Well, this past weekend we found out. This is the biggest event seen in the city and we discovered the importance of making hotel reservations EARLY. The downtown hotels are sold out often a year in advance. We managed to find rooms at Harrah's Casino in nearby Council Bluffs, Iowa--an experience in itself!
At times the weekend resembled a revival meeting with Buffett and his longtime partner (and Vice Chairman) Charlie Munger offering as much investment philosophy as specific answers. Some of the very candid responses included:
- Views on the role of traditional Wall Street deal makers - a total waste of time. Add no value, just make money for themselves. They'll never deal with them.
- Discussion of hedge funds - great at making money for their principals, not investors. But there are too many of them to continue to make money even for themselves.
- Thoughts about the housing bubble - they don't know when it will bust, or how, but it is very unlikely to have a good outcome. Reference to the "internet " and "tulip bulb" bubbles.
- Outlook for the dollar - unlikely that the huge trade deficit will not have some impact on dollar. They can't predict how much, or when; but the direction is clear. They have moved from currency hedging to investing in global companies. Announced the acquisition of an Israeli tool maker.
- An answer about investing in technology - they have a very simple philosophy about investing, there are good ideas, bad ideas and things that are just too hard. Technology is just too hard to figure out. They stick to what we understand
- Thoughts about Ethanol - stupid idea (this according to Munger), demented to think it's a solution for the energy needs. Must have meaningful efficiency improvements and conservation (this from two Nebraskan!).
- Rational for acquisitions - very interested in good businesses looking to monetize their net worth. Looking outside the US for the first time. Will not enter into an auction or buy from a "financial manager" - only someone looking to continue to manage the business. Criteria are outlined in the Annual Report. Buffett meets with 40 groups of students each year looking for ideas. Has offered a bonus of one Class B share (about $3,000) for each student if idea has been used (one was).
- What they thought about offering dividends - not in his lifetime.
- How they would deal with inheritance - all his Berkshire stock (about $35 billion) will go to charity on his death. He doesn't believe he can work to earn money and give it away at the same time (a la Bill Gates). Thinks it's schizophrenic.
Bottom line? We'll be back next year! But for one day less.
Self Proclaimed "Foodies"
There are those who eat to fuel their bodies and then there are the "Foodies"! Epicure, defines a foodie as, "a person devoted to refined sensuous enjoyment of food and drink". I'm not sure how you get to be a 'foodie', but perhaps it's genetic??? You know you're a foodie if:
* you begin making plans for dinner right after breakfast
* you order what's in season at Starbucks
* you know the name of the chef at the local diner
* you worry about the "terroir" of chocolate - or even know what terroire is~
Our friend Steve always kids us when we get really involved in a discussion of food, where the best places are to eat and what we love about the combinations certain foods and wine. He would never consider himself a 'foodie', but we've noticed that he's come to appreciate a better quality of wine and occasionally is willing to try something outside his comfort zone!
This past week we joined premier 'foodies' Sheila and Joe at a fine resturant they discoverd in Chelsea. "Crispo" is undistinguished at first glance and realtors would not say that it had 'curb appeal'. However, don't be fooled. This is a wonderful place; cozy, with a long, comfortable, bar as you walk through the door, inviting tables in the main room, but the real secret is the garden with a retracting roof AND a wood burning fireplace. The back wall has an incredible collection of meat slicers from past eras and it was a relaxing to sit out there on a warm spring evening with the sound of a trickling fountain in the background. Sheila and Joe had been to Crispo before, but had not yet enjoyed the garden so it was a delilght for the four of us. Joe and Paul quickly made decisions about the appetizers and both Sheila and I agreed that we could have happily made a meal of those selections alone. For this night we were unanimous about the favourites: Rice Balls served with marinara sauce (be sure to ask for this when making this selection), stuffed hot peppers and sausage wrapped in sage leaves. We also liked the ricotta with truffle oil and the eggplant caponata.
Everything on the menu looked good and there were at least three things on the nightly specials that I would have been happy to have. We all started with the same pasta course of "pappardelle with a wild mushroom ragout". Thank goodness that we shared this dish because the entree was yet to come! Christina and Sheila selected the seared scallops served with a 'carrot risotto cake' and roasted peppers--both agreed this was outstanding. Paul was happy with his choice of roasted chicken on the bone with a serving of polenta and some sweet peas. Joe raved about his Roast Pork Shank and especially liked the accompanying crispy onion rings. The meal was perfectly accompanied by a less well known red wine selected by Joe (Numanthia-Termes, Tempernillo '03) and topped off with coffee and a shared serving of warm chocolate chip cookies! Needless to say, we were happy to have a long walk after dinner!
This is a fine neighbourhood resturant with friendly staff and reasonable prices. By the way, if you enjoy drinking Cosmos, don't pass up the "Blood Orange Cosmo" on their special spring cocktails list.
So, send us your definition of a 'foodie' and let's compare notes!
Crispo
West Village
240 W. 14th St.(bet. 7th & 8th Aves.)
New York, NY 10011
212-229-1818
Zagats says...
Full of “robust flavors”, the Northern Italian food at this “hopping” Villager is served in “warm, romantic” quarters that light up an otherwise “drab” block; add “affordable” wines and a “transporting” “outdoor garden” and you’ve got a clear winner.
* you begin making plans for dinner right after breakfast
* you order what's in season at Starbucks
* you know the name of the chef at the local diner
* you worry about the "terroir" of chocolate - or even know what terroire is~
Our friend Steve always kids us when we get really involved in a discussion of food, where the best places are to eat and what we love about the combinations certain foods and wine. He would never consider himself a 'foodie', but we've noticed that he's come to appreciate a better quality of wine and occasionally is willing to try something outside his comfort zone!
This past week we joined premier 'foodies' Sheila and Joe at a fine resturant they discoverd in Chelsea. "Crispo" is undistinguished at first glance and realtors would not say that it had 'curb appeal'. However, don't be fooled. This is a wonderful place; cozy, with a long, comfortable, bar as you walk through the door, inviting tables in the main room, but the real secret is the garden with a retracting roof AND a wood burning fireplace. The back wall has an incredible collection of meat slicers from past eras and it was a relaxing to sit out there on a warm spring evening with the sound of a trickling fountain in the background. Sheila and Joe had been to Crispo before, but had not yet enjoyed the garden so it was a delilght for the four of us. Joe and Paul quickly made decisions about the appetizers and both Sheila and I agreed that we could have happily made a meal of those selections alone. For this night we were unanimous about the favourites: Rice Balls served with marinara sauce (be sure to ask for this when making this selection), stuffed hot peppers and sausage wrapped in sage leaves. We also liked the ricotta with truffle oil and the eggplant caponata.
Everything on the menu looked good and there were at least three things on the nightly specials that I would have been happy to have. We all started with the same pasta course of "pappardelle with a wild mushroom ragout". Thank goodness that we shared this dish because the entree was yet to come! Christina and Sheila selected the seared scallops served with a 'carrot risotto cake' and roasted peppers--both agreed this was outstanding. Paul was happy with his choice of roasted chicken on the bone with a serving of polenta and some sweet peas. Joe raved about his Roast Pork Shank and especially liked the accompanying crispy onion rings. The meal was perfectly accompanied by a less well known red wine selected by Joe (Numanthia-Termes, Tempernillo '03) and topped off with coffee and a shared serving of warm chocolate chip cookies! Needless to say, we were happy to have a long walk after dinner!
This is a fine neighbourhood resturant with friendly staff and reasonable prices. By the way, if you enjoy drinking Cosmos, don't pass up the "Blood Orange Cosmo" on their special spring cocktails list.
So, send us your definition of a 'foodie' and let's compare notes!
Crispo
West Village
240 W. 14th St.(bet. 7th & 8th Aves.)
New York, NY 10011
212-229-1818
Zagats says...
Full of “robust flavors”, the Northern Italian food at this “hopping” Villager is served in “warm, romantic” quarters that light up an otherwise “drab” block; add “affordable” wines and a “transporting” “outdoor garden” and you’ve got a clear winner.
Tuesday, April 18, 2006
A new review by a guest editor (ess)
We hope that one and all had a delightful Easter Sunday.
Steve and I had the pleasure of dining with our good friends Frank and Lorraine at a great new restaurant in the Berkshires. It is tucked away on a scenic hillside and is called Chez Agita. We made reservations and it was a smart thing to do as the intimacy of the setting limited the number of available tables.
Upon our arrival we knew we were in for a special treat. Before we could take our coats off, our server brought to us delectable slices of warm Foccacia straight from the Il Costco toaster oven. Parmigiano Reggiano a la Queen Mary complimented this beautifully.
Our table, adorned in Mappa da McDonalds place mats was a sight to behold. As we began our main course, we toasted one another’s health with a robust and fruity glass of Dancing Bull Zinfandel straight from the Gran Prix Chopper marketplace. Without a doubt, it was Zin-fully delicious.
Chef Frankie prepared Pasta Castellane, a house special of the Dollare Store, and moist, tender and flavorful Chop of Pork presented on a bed of red peppers and onions. I’m salivating just thinking about it. The garlic and oil infused broccoli would have made a convert of the most ardent vegetaphobe.
Dessert was a blast from our Goombah past. Guest chef Lily-Belle prepared Easter pie filled with ricotta, pine nuts, vanilla. Confectioners sugar, eggs and orange zest. Otis Food Critic, and Critic of Everything, Stefano Barkerla, thought that it could have been a little sweeter. So what else is new?
Quiche Lorraine ended the evening on a high note with her aromatic blend of coffee from the Tassimo tub machine. This was the perfect end to a perfect evening.
ZAGAT says: A hidden gem in the hills of Otis, MA. Superior service, exquisite presentation, mouth watering fare……and the price is right. Did I forget to say that Chez Agita is pet friendly?
Steve and I had the pleasure of dining with our good friends Frank and Lorraine at a great new restaurant in the Berkshires. It is tucked away on a scenic hillside and is called Chez Agita. We made reservations and it was a smart thing to do as the intimacy of the setting limited the number of available tables.
Upon our arrival we knew we were in for a special treat. Before we could take our coats off, our server brought to us delectable slices of warm Foccacia straight from the Il Costco toaster oven. Parmigiano Reggiano a la Queen Mary complimented this beautifully.
Our table, adorned in Mappa da McDonalds place mats was a sight to behold. As we began our main course, we toasted one another’s health with a robust and fruity glass of Dancing Bull Zinfandel straight from the Gran Prix Chopper marketplace. Without a doubt, it was Zin-fully delicious.
Chef Frankie prepared Pasta Castellane, a house special of the Dollare Store, and moist, tender and flavorful Chop of Pork presented on a bed of red peppers and onions. I’m salivating just thinking about it. The garlic and oil infused broccoli would have made a convert of the most ardent vegetaphobe.
Dessert was a blast from our Goombah past. Guest chef Lily-Belle prepared Easter pie filled with ricotta, pine nuts, vanilla. Confectioners sugar, eggs and orange zest. Otis Food Critic, and Critic of Everything, Stefano Barkerla, thought that it could have been a little sweeter. So what else is new?
Quiche Lorraine ended the evening on a high note with her aromatic blend of coffee from the Tassimo tub machine. This was the perfect end to a perfect evening.
ZAGAT says: A hidden gem in the hills of Otis, MA. Superior service, exquisite presentation, mouth watering fare……and the price is right. Did I forget to say that Chez Agita is pet friendly?
Wednesday, April 12, 2006
Take me out to the ball game
Scott and I went to the Home-Opener Yankee Game this week which was totally sold out with 55,000 people at Yankee Stadium. He got the tickets from MLB who work with his company on the video game of the same name. The game started well with Jason Giambi hitting a three run homer in the first inning. It then went down hill fast on less than stellar pitching from Chien-Ming Wang - last year's wunderkind. It even included an unexplainable lapse by fan favorite Bernie Williams who "wandered" off second base on a short fly ball to left field. The early chants of B-E-R-N-I-E for Williams decision to return as the DH, turned to brief BOOs as he was put out for an inning-ending double play. He later described it as a "brain cramp".
Everything turned around however, after the "seventh-inning stretch" when the Yankees came roaring back. Finally, they were ahead 7-5 on a homerun by Derek Jeter, the team captain and most popular player. The chants of "DER-EK JE-TER" continued through the end of the game and onto the subway. We also saw Mariano Rivera pitch his first save of the year. Overall, it was a wonderfully exciting game for the huge crowd and everybody left happy.
Scott and I left feeling all pumped up and decided we needed STEAKS! (This must be the testosterone! cdel) To me, the best steakhouse in New York is Sparks. Others may be prettier, but none have the combination of perfect steaks and decent ambiance (a steakhouse can't be too nice and still be called a "steakhouse" rather than a "restaurant" that serves steaks).
Sparks serves the traditional 16 oz. NY strip steak with traditional sides of homefries, mushrooms and a green vegetable. They also serve lamb or veal chops and some fish - including a 3-6 pound lobster! As an aside, in all the years I've been going to Sparks (over 20) I've never seen anyone but a Japanese tourist eat the lobster - it's huge, but they seem to feel it's a right of passage to say that they've had the lobster at a NY steakhouse and then complain how big the portions are!
We were in "men's night out" mode after the ball game so I started with scotch and a shrimp cocktail while Scott opted for bourbon and clams on the half shell; this was followed by steaks with the usual sides. Having been gone all day, we felt badly so we invited Christina and Jory (who was busy) to our "boys night". Since Chris isn't a "real" man she ordered a salad and sliced steak - she has no sense of tradition. The steaks were absolutely wonderful--even hers. They age their own beef and grill it at just the right temperature for a perfect seared black outside and medium rare inside. No one makes a better NY stripsteak. Peter Lugers, in Brooklyn, another wonderful spot does a fabulous porterhouse but Sparks in king of the NY strip.
Sparks is a NY institution. I've seen Muhammad Ali, H. Ross Perot, Paul Castellano, Woody Allen, Donald Trump and innumerable other greater and lesser lights there and I've taken every out of town visitor there for a quintessionally NY meal. The only downside is the crowd. The bar is a mad-house, it's never quiet and you always need a reservation.
Sparks Steak House
East 40s 210 E. 46th St.(bet. 2nd & 3rd Aves.)
Manhattan, NY 10017
212-687-4855
Zagats says...
You get to watch wheeler-dealers wheel and deal at this "manly man" Midtown meat market where everything's big, from the steaks flavors and the wine list to the dining room and the noise level; it's a prime example of how cholesterol should taste, but bring your checkbook and a carefree attitude to deal with the frequent waits since people are dying to eat here.
Everything turned around however, after the "seventh-inning stretch" when the Yankees came roaring back. Finally, they were ahead 7-5 on a homerun by Derek Jeter, the team captain and most popular player. The chants of "DER-EK JE-TER" continued through the end of the game and onto the subway. We also saw Mariano Rivera pitch his first save of the year. Overall, it was a wonderfully exciting game for the huge crowd and everybody left happy.
Scott and I left feeling all pumped up and decided we needed STEAKS! (This must be the testosterone! cdel) To me, the best steakhouse in New York is Sparks. Others may be prettier, but none have the combination of perfect steaks and decent ambiance (a steakhouse can't be too nice and still be called a "steakhouse" rather than a "restaurant" that serves steaks).
Sparks serves the traditional 16 oz. NY strip steak with traditional sides of homefries, mushrooms and a green vegetable. They also serve lamb or veal chops and some fish - including a 3-6 pound lobster! As an aside, in all the years I've been going to Sparks (over 20) I've never seen anyone but a Japanese tourist eat the lobster - it's huge, but they seem to feel it's a right of passage to say that they've had the lobster at a NY steakhouse and then complain how big the portions are!
We were in "men's night out" mode after the ball game so I started with scotch and a shrimp cocktail while Scott opted for bourbon and clams on the half shell; this was followed by steaks with the usual sides. Having been gone all day, we felt badly so we invited Christina and Jory (who was busy) to our "boys night". Since Chris isn't a "real" man she ordered a salad and sliced steak - she has no sense of tradition. The steaks were absolutely wonderful--even hers. They age their own beef and grill it at just the right temperature for a perfect seared black outside and medium rare inside. No one makes a better NY stripsteak. Peter Lugers, in Brooklyn, another wonderful spot does a fabulous porterhouse but Sparks in king of the NY strip.
Sparks is a NY institution. I've seen Muhammad Ali, H. Ross Perot, Paul Castellano, Woody Allen, Donald Trump and innumerable other greater and lesser lights there and I've taken every out of town visitor there for a quintessionally NY meal. The only downside is the crowd. The bar is a mad-house, it's never quiet and you always need a reservation.
Sparks Steak House
East 40s 210 E. 46th St.(bet. 2nd & 3rd Aves.)
Manhattan, NY 10017
212-687-4855
Zagats says...
You get to watch wheeler-dealers wheel and deal at this "manly man" Midtown meat market where everything's big, from the steaks flavors and the wine list to the dining room and the noise level; it's a prime example of how cholesterol should taste, but bring your checkbook and a carefree attitude to deal with the frequent waits since people are dying to eat here.
Friday, April 07, 2006
Mothers and Sons
As the mother of a son, I've always felt that the 'mother/son' relationship hasn't received adequate notice or attention; positive attention that is. Have you ever noticed the number of 'mother/daughter', 'father/son' and even 'father/daughter' events? When mother/son relationships are mentioned it's usually in a derogatory way; how often have you heard a reference to "mamma's boy" -- and doesn't that conjure up a picture? Why is that?
I'm happy to report that Scott and I have many mother/son days and enjoy each other's company and the fact that he lives in the city means that we get to see quite a bit of him. Not so long ago, he and I had dinner and went to a jazz concert at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It was the final in a series of Jazz evenings entitled "Three Mo Tenors". The artists, whose names I've now forgotten were a group of classically trained tenors. The program which included operatic music, jazz, gospel, soul, spirituals, Broadway and the blues was non-stop with only a short intermission and lots of participation from the audience. I'm sure that everyone in the there would agree that we got our money's worth this night.
Our evening out included dinner at a restaurant close to the museum; Girasole, a cute Italian spot on 82nd Street. It felt like a quaint neighbourhood spot with friendly staff, a good but unremarkable menu and a wine list that had some affordable selections. My mixed green salad was fresh with a light dressing and Scott enjoyed a cold calamari salad also in a vinaigrette. For the main course, I chose from one of the daily specials, a wild boar chop, served with fresh asparagus, green beans and red peppers. The chop was perfectly grilled and was topped with a mustard and peppercorn sauce. Scott thoroughly enjoyed a serving of grilled sea bass with mushrooms, asparagus and a mixture of rice. We finished with coffee and got to the show with minutes to spare. This is a quaint little spot, a bit on the pricey side, but worth checking out.
Girasole
East 80s 151 E. 82nd St.(bet. Lexington & 3rd Aves.)
New York, NY 10028
212-772-6690
Zagats says ...
“Popular with the Met staff” and Upper Eastsiders “who can afford” the tabs, this “small, refined” Italian functions almost like “a neighborhood club”; the “better-than-average” (if “unremarkable”) fare and “consistently good” service please its “generally older” crowd
I'm happy to report that Scott and I have many mother/son days and enjoy each other's company and the fact that he lives in the city means that we get to see quite a bit of him. Not so long ago, he and I had dinner and went to a jazz concert at the Metropolitan Museum of Art. It was the final in a series of Jazz evenings entitled "Three Mo Tenors". The artists, whose names I've now forgotten were a group of classically trained tenors. The program which included operatic music, jazz, gospel, soul, spirituals, Broadway and the blues was non-stop with only a short intermission and lots of participation from the audience. I'm sure that everyone in the there would agree that we got our money's worth this night.
Our evening out included dinner at a restaurant close to the museum; Girasole, a cute Italian spot on 82nd Street. It felt like a quaint neighbourhood spot with friendly staff, a good but unremarkable menu and a wine list that had some affordable selections. My mixed green salad was fresh with a light dressing and Scott enjoyed a cold calamari salad also in a vinaigrette. For the main course, I chose from one of the daily specials, a wild boar chop, served with fresh asparagus, green beans and red peppers. The chop was perfectly grilled and was topped with a mustard and peppercorn sauce. Scott thoroughly enjoyed a serving of grilled sea bass with mushrooms, asparagus and a mixture of rice. We finished with coffee and got to the show with minutes to spare. This is a quaint little spot, a bit on the pricey side, but worth checking out.
Girasole
East 80s 151 E. 82nd St.(bet. Lexington & 3rd Aves.)
New York, NY 10028
212-772-6690
Zagats says ...
“Popular with the Met staff” and Upper Eastsiders “who can afford” the tabs, this “small, refined” Italian functions almost like “a neighborhood club”; the “better-than-average” (if “unremarkable”) fare and “consistently good” service please its “generally older” crowd
Rouge
Rouge has been one of our favorite places in the Berkshires since it opened several years ago. This friendly restaurant is run by a young husband and wife team (Maggie's the hostess and front room manager and her husband Mark the chef). They've done a great job converting a local house to include several cozy dining areas, a small porch and a comfortable bar space with a few small tables where you can enjoy a drink while waiting for your table and have lighter fare--the tapas is particularly good. They have a nice mix of straightforward dishes (heavy on steaks and fish) prepared with a 'French Bistro' flare. Our only complaint has been the consistently slow service and sometimes long waits despite having a reservation. Most recently, the service was so bad, there were three different servers trading off. To make matters worse, they brought the check before even offering dessert or coffee.
Recently, we've also noticed that the usually reliable preparations have sometimes been inconsistent. We've had escargot that looked and tasted re-heated, salad that was not fresh and Duck that's been over-sauced. On this night however, the food was great. Christina and I had a roasted chicken on the bone (I thought mine was a little dry, she liked hers) with a wonderful lemony wilted spinach that was delicious. Others at our table had steak, sliced breast of duck and rack of lamb all of which got very positive reviews. The starters included their signature mixed greens with breaded goat cheese, mussels that were reportedly tasty (If our friend Joe says they're good, you know you have a winner). The wine selections are very good and the cocktails imaginative. Pomegranate seems to be the new "in" drink and here they made a tasty pomegranate sangria. We definitely think this is a place worth visiting. By the time we get back, Maggie and Mark will be proud parents for the second time. This may be the start of a new family dynasty!
Rouge
3 Center St.(Hotel St.)
West Stockbridge, MA 01266
413-232-4111
Zagats says:
Outstanding tapas and superbly prepared French bistro fare focusing on local ingredients are served by a lively, welcoming staff at this West Stockbridge two-year-old with a terrace overlooking the Williams River and a noise level that's tough on conversation; though some supporters are pleased, others say they still need to get their act together and open more often.
Recently, we've also noticed that the usually reliable preparations have sometimes been inconsistent. We've had escargot that looked and tasted re-heated, salad that was not fresh and Duck that's been over-sauced. On this night however, the food was great. Christina and I had a roasted chicken on the bone (I thought mine was a little dry, she liked hers) with a wonderful lemony wilted spinach that was delicious. Others at our table had steak, sliced breast of duck and rack of lamb all of which got very positive reviews. The starters included their signature mixed greens with breaded goat cheese, mussels that were reportedly tasty (If our friend Joe says they're good, you know you have a winner). The wine selections are very good and the cocktails imaginative. Pomegranate seems to be the new "in" drink and here they made a tasty pomegranate sangria. We definitely think this is a place worth visiting. By the time we get back, Maggie and Mark will be proud parents for the second time. This may be the start of a new family dynasty!
Rouge
3 Center St.(Hotel St.)
West Stockbridge, MA 01266
413-232-4111
Zagats says:
Outstanding tapas and superbly prepared French bistro fare focusing on local ingredients are served by a lively, welcoming staff at this West Stockbridge two-year-old with a terrace overlooking the Williams River and a noise level that's tough on conversation; though some supporters are pleased, others say they still need to get their act together and open more often.
Sunday, March 26, 2006
The Red Lion Inn
http://image.pegs.com/images/UZ/656/656_b1.jpg
The Red Lion Inn, in the heart of the Berkshires in Massachusettes is one of the oldest American Inns still in operation. Built as a stage coach stop in 1773, it still provides comfortable lodging to guests who come to the area to hike, visit Tanglewood or attend any of the other numerous cultural events found here. It still operates as a B&B, and apart from the main dinning room, you can get service in the "Widow Bingham's Tavern", "Jack's Grill", or in the summer enjoy dinning in the "Courtyard". Live entertainment is available in the "Lion's Den" most evenings. If you're there during business hours, there's a cute gift shop and they are home to one branch of "Country Curtains".
The Inn itself is rustic, filled with beautiful antiques and on this night there was still a welcoming fire in the grate. As we entered the main hall, guests were sitting around enjoying each other's company, reading a book or playing cards.
Tables in the main dinningroom are nicely spaced but it's beginning to look a little tired and the chairs need tightening! The atmosphere, however, is cozy, the staff efficient and courteous and we really like the place. This year on Sunday and Monday evenings, the resturant offers a prix fixed dinner menu based on locally grown and produced fare. We decided to give it a try since many of the area resturants support local farmers especially in season and often boast a "Proudly Serve Berkshire Grownand Produced Food Products" on their menus. We mixed and matched from the regular menu and the Prix Fixed and gave the meal an overall mixed review. We both started with soup, Paul their classic Cheddar, Ale & Sausage (which he loved) and I the locally grown veggie (which was rather watery and tasteless). For the main course I selected the wild mushroom Gnocchi with sauteed spinch and although it looked unappetizing, tasted delicious. Paul opted for the Roast Prime Rib of Beef and while the beef which was served medium rare just the way he liked it. Both meals were served on the cool side which did nothing for the vegetables and turned the mashed potatoes into a hard lumpy mass.
Saturday, March 25, 2006
Museum visits
We've been to the Metropolitan Museum of Art twice a week for different courses - one sponsored by the museum on the Cities of Italy every Wednesday night offered an entertaining focus on the architecture of Florence, Rome, Venice and Naples. It was held in an auditorium and was sold out every night. The lecturer had a great sense of humor and brought the renaissance to life.
The other is provided by NYU (Continuing Ed.) every Friday night entitled "Hidden Treasures of the Met". We chose the course as part of our continuing effort to learn more about the museum and art in general. While we have learned quite a bit about the Asian collections, the instructor has a very poor attitude, is ill prepared and has left us with a feeling of disappointment many evenings.
In Paris, we discovered an organization called Paris Muse that uses Art History Phds to host focused small group ( 2 or 4 people) tours of selected museums and exhibitions. They really bring the museums to life providing insights we never could have gotten by ourselves. We have never been able to find any gorup like that in NY.
After the class we went to a new restaurant on E. 82nd - Le Refuge. It's a really nice looking and comfortable French Bistro. Unfortunately, the food is only so-so. I had a nice grilled goat cheese and vegetable tart but the duck entree reminded me of "continental" restaurants of old - over-sauced and tough. Chris was happier with her meal but I am writing this review. Cdelb--I really enjoyed my meal of hot goat cheese over a salad of arugula followed by stipped bass pan seared to perfection accompanied by fresh asparagus and green beans. My only complaint was that the beans were a little over cooked. I think that in a small bistro like this, the trick is to order from the list of 'chef's daily specials'. This usually ensures a fresh cut of meat or fish and veggies. I think the duck may have been a frozen entre!
One of the things that appealed to both of us was their attractive bar area and near the door there is a love seat and armchair with a small table which is perfect for anyone just wanting a cheese plate and a glass of wine.
Le Refuge
East 80s 166 E. 82nd St.(bet. Lexington & 3rd Aves.)
Manhattan, NY 10028
212-861-4505
Zagats says...
“Aptly named”, this “quiet” bistro nestled in an East Side townhouse offers “just the right dose of class” with its “rustic antique” decor, “sophisticated” French fare and “polished service”; for most, it’s a “best-known secret” where “reliable” quality comes at serious tabs.
The other is provided by NYU (Continuing Ed.) every Friday night entitled "Hidden Treasures of the Met". We chose the course as part of our continuing effort to learn more about the museum and art in general. While we have learned quite a bit about the Asian collections, the instructor has a very poor attitude, is ill prepared and has left us with a feeling of disappointment many evenings.
In Paris, we discovered an organization called Paris Muse that uses Art History Phds to host focused small group ( 2 or 4 people) tours of selected museums and exhibitions. They really bring the museums to life providing insights we never could have gotten by ourselves. We have never been able to find any gorup like that in NY.
After the class we went to a new restaurant on E. 82nd - Le Refuge. It's a really nice looking and comfortable French Bistro. Unfortunately, the food is only so-so. I had a nice grilled goat cheese and vegetable tart but the duck entree reminded me of "continental" restaurants of old - over-sauced and tough. Chris was happier with her meal but I am writing this review. Cdelb--I really enjoyed my meal of hot goat cheese over a salad of arugula followed by stipped bass pan seared to perfection accompanied by fresh asparagus and green beans. My only complaint was that the beans were a little over cooked. I think that in a small bistro like this, the trick is to order from the list of 'chef's daily specials'. This usually ensures a fresh cut of meat or fish and veggies. I think the duck may have been a frozen entre!
One of the things that appealed to both of us was their attractive bar area and near the door there is a love seat and armchair with a small table which is perfect for anyone just wanting a cheese plate and a glass of wine.
Le Refuge
East 80s 166 E. 82nd St.(bet. Lexington & 3rd Aves.)
Manhattan, NY 10028
212-861-4505
Zagats says...
“Aptly named”, this “quiet” bistro nestled in an East Side townhouse offers “just the right dose of class” with its “rustic antique” decor, “sophisticated” French fare and “polished service”; for most, it’s a “best-known secret” where “reliable” quality comes at serious tabs.
Wednesday, March 22, 2006
The Oak Room at the Algonquin Hotel
On Tuesday night we went to the Oak Room at the Algonquin to see our friend Loren Schoenberg appear with KT Sullivan and Mark Nadler. The Show, "Swell Party" was a Cole Porter review. It was absolutely wonderful - maybe the best cabaret we've seen (see NYT review below). They really have fun with the sexy lyrics, outfits to match the mood and interesting interpretations of the life of Cole Porter. We had seen this pair (without Loren) in Palm Beach at the Colony. The show there was based on the work of Dorothy Fields and while good, nothing like this. Picture sultry lyrics sung suggestively or teasingly by either of the pair, mix in some attitude from the sax and imagine piano and base in the background. There were songs new to us, but old favorites like "Begin the Begine", or "Oh, La, La, La, C'Est Magnifique" and one song following the next with hardly a breather in the entire 90 minute performance
The Algonquin Hotel is famous for the Algonquin Round Table in the 1920's that included a group of literary legends including Dorothy Parker, George S. Kaufman and Robert Benchley. The Oak Room is a small, intimate, venue that makes you feel like you're in a nightclub with Humphrey Bogart - except for the lack of smoke! This night we shared the space with the likes of Kitty Carlisle (yes, she LIVES), Tova Feldshu and others not quite so famous. We usually enjoy the repartee in Cabaret. This time there was little of that but the songs told the story. We were sitting about 3 feet from KT; it doesn't get better. Loren accompanied them on the saxophone and really added a whole new dimension to some of the songs.
You need to have dinner to get a decent table (it's a small room but there are still corners!). There's a limited fixed price menu, choices of steak, chicken, salmon, or pasta. Those in the 'know' ask for a 'popover' along with their bread basket. Salads are usually very good; desert includes ice cream and chocolate choices. Overall, the food is pretty good for a night club.
I believe they are sold out for the rest of the run, but if you're there for a drink, be nice to Kendall at the door and she might find a spot along the wall.
Cabaret Review 'A Swell Party'
They Skip the Bio and Cut to the Cole Porter Chase
By STEPHEN HOLDEN
Published: March 18, 2006
In the language of Cole Porter: oo-la-la-la! C'est magnifique!
That burst of Gallic joie describes the ebullience of "A Swell Party — R.S.V.P. Cole Porter," the truly fabulous Porter tribute winked, smirked, crooned and shouted by K T Sullivan and Mark Nadler at the Oak Room of the Algonquin Hotel. A departure from the team's zany tutorials on luminaries of the great American songbook, "A Swell Party" skips the biographical part to deliver songs both famous and obscure, in a delirious whoosh of lubricious exuberance.
Imparting the composer's live-for-the-moment-of-passion philosophy, Ms. Sullivan and Mr. Nadler suggest a very ripened Botticelli Venus squired by Danny Kaye, freshly reincarnated as a hyperkinetic piano man visiting from vaudeville heaven. A valuable new addition to their act, the saxophonist Loren Schoenberg injects instrumental comedy into "Let's Do It," by deflating the phrase sung as "let's fall in love" by inflecting it with a corny vibrato; no, the song is definitely not about love. Later he returns for a husky insinuating solo of "Begin the Beguine" in which the singers and the bassist John Loehrke join him to evoke an image of an ocean liner swimming in Champagne at 4 a.m.
Beneath the brilliantine surface of Porter's lyrics, everything is sexual. The only times his double-entendres fade into the background is during sighs of besotted yearning and cries of rapture. Only then does lust turn into the kind of love that's "too hot not to cool down."
"A Swell Party" probably has more showstoppers than any other cabaret show this season. Here are two: After taking "Kate the Great," an editorial brief for nymphomania that offers Catherine the Great as a role model ("she made the butler/ she made the groom/ she made the maid who made the room"), Mr. Nadler astutely observes that the song describes how Porter might have ruled Russia.
The giddiest of Ms. Sullivan's several turns as erotic philosopher is a swiveling, eye-rolling "Most Gentlemen Don't Like Love," which warns all gals: "So just remember when you get that glance/ A romp and a quickie/ Is all little Dickie/ Means/ When he mentions romance."
There's more, much more where that came from in a show that reminds you that half the pleasure of excess is finding the perfect words to describe it.
"A Swell Party - R.S.V.P. Cole Porter" remains through April 1 at the Oak Room of the Algonquin Hotel, 59 West 44th Street, Manhattan, (212) 419-9331.
The Algonquin Hotel is famous for the Algonquin Round Table in the 1920's that included a group of literary legends including Dorothy Parker, George S. Kaufman and Robert Benchley. The Oak Room is a small, intimate, venue that makes you feel like you're in a nightclub with Humphrey Bogart - except for the lack of smoke! This night we shared the space with the likes of Kitty Carlisle (yes, she LIVES), Tova Feldshu and others not quite so famous. We usually enjoy the repartee in Cabaret. This time there was little of that but the songs told the story. We were sitting about 3 feet from KT; it doesn't get better. Loren accompanied them on the saxophone and really added a whole new dimension to some of the songs.
You need to have dinner to get a decent table (it's a small room but there are still corners!). There's a limited fixed price menu, choices of steak, chicken, salmon, or pasta. Those in the 'know' ask for a 'popover' along with their bread basket. Salads are usually very good; desert includes ice cream and chocolate choices. Overall, the food is pretty good for a night club.
I believe they are sold out for the rest of the run, but if you're there for a drink, be nice to Kendall at the door and she might find a spot along the wall.
Cabaret Review 'A Swell Party'
They Skip the Bio and Cut to the Cole Porter Chase
By STEPHEN HOLDEN
Published: March 18, 2006
In the language of Cole Porter: oo-la-la-la! C'est magnifique!
That burst of Gallic joie describes the ebullience of "A Swell Party — R.S.V.P. Cole Porter," the truly fabulous Porter tribute winked, smirked, crooned and shouted by K T Sullivan and Mark Nadler at the Oak Room of the Algonquin Hotel. A departure from the team's zany tutorials on luminaries of the great American songbook, "A Swell Party" skips the biographical part to deliver songs both famous and obscure, in a delirious whoosh of lubricious exuberance.
Imparting the composer's live-for-the-moment-of-passion philosophy, Ms. Sullivan and Mr. Nadler suggest a very ripened Botticelli Venus squired by Danny Kaye, freshly reincarnated as a hyperkinetic piano man visiting from vaudeville heaven. A valuable new addition to their act, the saxophonist Loren Schoenberg injects instrumental comedy into "Let's Do It," by deflating the phrase sung as "let's fall in love" by inflecting it with a corny vibrato; no, the song is definitely not about love. Later he returns for a husky insinuating solo of "Begin the Beguine" in which the singers and the bassist John Loehrke join him to evoke an image of an ocean liner swimming in Champagne at 4 a.m.
Beneath the brilliantine surface of Porter's lyrics, everything is sexual. The only times his double-entendres fade into the background is during sighs of besotted yearning and cries of rapture. Only then does lust turn into the kind of love that's "too hot not to cool down."
"A Swell Party" probably has more showstoppers than any other cabaret show this season. Here are two: After taking "Kate the Great," an editorial brief for nymphomania that offers Catherine the Great as a role model ("she made the butler/ she made the groom/ she made the maid who made the room"), Mr. Nadler astutely observes that the song describes how Porter might have ruled Russia.
The giddiest of Ms. Sullivan's several turns as erotic philosopher is a swiveling, eye-rolling "Most Gentlemen Don't Like Love," which warns all gals: "So just remember when you get that glance/ A romp and a quickie/ Is all little Dickie/ Means/ When he mentions romance."
There's more, much more where that came from in a show that reminds you that half the pleasure of excess is finding the perfect words to describe it.
"A Swell Party - R.S.V.P. Cole Porter" remains through April 1 at the Oak Room of the Algonquin Hotel, 59 West 44th Street, Manhattan, (212) 419-9331.
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