In France, dogs are beloved! They’re welcome in shops, restaurants, and just about everywhere except most parks! Why not parks?? My own suspicion is that few owners pick up after their pets, despite a law which imposes a fine of 185 Euros for failing to ‘stoop and scoop’. Judging by what’s left on the sidewalks and streets, enforcement is not a high priority. Stepping outdoors in Paris can be tricky sometimes. Here on Ile St. Louis where the sidewalks are narrow, the human and car traffic heavy, we’re constantly dodging something or someone. The locals seem to have a knack for doing this, especially when it comes to avoiding the deposits left by the dogs! It’s uncanny to watch a local, cell phone at their ear, arms full and walking a top speed, avoid the droppings - almost like there’s a built in GPS system that sparks a ‘poo’ alarm. With the magic cleaning apparatus and early morning gutter washings, the situation does not get completely out of hand.
The dog above belongs to the owner of that butcher shop. He’s there every day making his own selections and keeping customers entertained.
Guarding the car!
I saw him on my way home today .
PC/Oct. ’06 .
Sunday, October 15, 2006
Saturday, October 07, 2006
La Nuit Blanche
At night, Paris takes on a completely different look. It sparkles, it shines and even the dreary spots take on a romantic charm! The Eiffle Tower is light up like a Christmas tree and for 20 minutes each hour the thousands of 'fairy lights' twinkle and it looks like magic. Monuments are are lit up and the boats along the Seine have powerful lights that give the city a new look in the dark.
Each year in early October, Paris does an “all nighter”, La Nuit Blanche. Some public buildings and all Museums stay open all night and admission is free and there are concerts and events all over town all night long—imagine viewing the Mona Lisa at midnight, visiting with Picasso at 3:00 am and be entertained at a street concert afterwards. The city is filled with people having a good time and there is something to be had for everyone.
Paul and I watched a show at Notre Dame, saw a performance of fire jugglers, many street performers and a modern dance interpretation on the bridge leading to our street. The people themselves are a show. Sadly, we did not last all night, but heard the revelrie until the very early part of the morning.
Many Parisians don’t like this night because they think it too commercial and find the crowds annoying. As a visitor, it was an interesting diversion and a chance to be part of a festive scene!
PC/October ‘06
Each year in early October, Paris does an “all nighter”, La Nuit Blanche. Some public buildings and all Museums stay open all night and admission is free and there are concerts and events all over town all night long—imagine viewing the Mona Lisa at midnight, visiting with Picasso at 3:00 am and be entertained at a street concert afterwards. The city is filled with people having a good time and there is something to be had for everyone.
Paul and I watched a show at Notre Dame, saw a performance of fire jugglers, many street performers and a modern dance interpretation on the bridge leading to our street. The people themselves are a show. Sadly, we did not last all night, but heard the revelrie until the very early part of the morning.
Many Parisians don’t like this night because they think it too commercial and find the crowds annoying. As a visitor, it was an interesting diversion and a chance to be part of a festive scene!
PC/October ‘06
Friday, October 06, 2006
A night at a neighborhood bar
Last night we went to the bar just down the street from our apartment--Les Fous des L'Ile. Chris had noticed a sign in the window advertising a young couple singing pop and blues (you can't let her get out of your sight for one minute!).
We got to this cozy little spot about 8:30pm for a 9:00pm performance. The crowd - mostly young French and French/Indian people were in a convivial mood as was the staff. The simple, inexpensive menu featured the type of food you see in Cafes and while I kept my order simple, I was disappointed. I had escargot to start and chicken in the pot to follow - what could go wrong with boiled chicken? Chris had a salad and a cheese plate accompanied by a house Beaujolais.
Chris' salad and cheese plate were fine. So was the escargot, clearly not freshly made, but OK. The chicken was the worst chicken I have ever tasted! It tasted embalmed, not boiled. Even the vegetables (potatoes and a mystery green) were inedible. Only the lone carrot was OK.
The entertainment, however, was absolutely wonderful and made the evening worthwhile. They sang American Pop and Blue songs for two solid hours. The selections were a mixture of familiar and their own material executed beautifully. Their stage presence added to their charm and evoked a lot of reaction from the crowd (the audience was sprinkled with their friends). After three encores they passed the hat for contributions. I felt like we had slipped into the Paris of Ernest Hemingway and his friends.
We got to this cozy little spot about 8:30pm for a 9:00pm performance. The crowd - mostly young French and French/Indian people were in a convivial mood as was the staff. The simple, inexpensive menu featured the type of food you see in Cafes and while I kept my order simple, I was disappointed. I had escargot to start and chicken in the pot to follow - what could go wrong with boiled chicken? Chris had a salad and a cheese plate accompanied by a house Beaujolais.
Chris' salad and cheese plate were fine. So was the escargot, clearly not freshly made, but OK. The chicken was the worst chicken I have ever tasted! It tasted embalmed, not boiled. Even the vegetables (potatoes and a mystery green) were inedible. Only the lone carrot was OK.
The entertainment, however, was absolutely wonderful and made the evening worthwhile. They sang American Pop and Blue songs for two solid hours. The selections were a mixture of familiar and their own material executed beautifully. Their stage presence added to their charm and evoked a lot of reaction from the crowd (the audience was sprinkled with their friends). After three encores they passed the hat for contributions. I felt like we had slipped into the Paris of Ernest Hemingway and his friends.
Why is this woman always busy?
We've now been in Paris for somewhat over one week and it's become clear that while I'm on vacation, Chris is working. This seems to be a wonderful reversal of the traditional roles.
In the time we've been away I've read 4 books; done the crossword puzzle every day; taken long walks and generally had a relaxing time.
Chris, on the other hand is still on her first book; barely starts the Monday puzzle and often wants a nap in the afternoon - but claims to be having a great time! I keep telling her she needs to better manage her time! She tells me to stick it where the sun don't shine. See her comment below ...
THIS IS NOT A HOLIDAY!!!! I keep telling Paul that, but he doesn't listen! This is living our life. Here we are in an apartment where beds have to be made, laundry done and I 'fait de menage'(do the housework)! It's not much different from our routine in NYC except that I now go to school every morning to learn French and then have homework in the afternoon just so that I can keep up--IT'S definitely like working; up at 7:00am and not in bed most nights until midnight! Paul's the one on holiday! In addition, I spend a great deal of time reading guide books and magazines looking for interesting things for us to do. I'm trying my best to delegate responsibility, but he's really good at evasion. My husband training abilities are definitely lacking. What's a girl to do????
I keep telling Chris she has to get her priorities straight so she has more time to relax and enjoy. The truth is her efforts give me the luxury of being able to just do what I want. Is'nt that just like a guy!
In the time we've been away I've read 4 books; done the crossword puzzle every day; taken long walks and generally had a relaxing time.
Chris, on the other hand is still on her first book; barely starts the Monday puzzle and often wants a nap in the afternoon - but claims to be having a great time! I keep telling her she needs to better manage her time! She tells me to stick it where the sun don't shine. See her comment below ...
THIS IS NOT A HOLIDAY!!!! I keep telling Paul that, but he doesn't listen! This is living our life. Here we are in an apartment where beds have to be made, laundry done and I 'fait de menage'(do the housework)! It's not much different from our routine in NYC except that I now go to school every morning to learn French and then have homework in the afternoon just so that I can keep up--IT'S definitely like working; up at 7:00am and not in bed most nights until midnight! Paul's the one on holiday! In addition, I spend a great deal of time reading guide books and magazines looking for interesting things for us to do. I'm trying my best to delegate responsibility, but he's really good at evasion. My husband training abilities are definitely lacking. What's a girl to do????
I keep telling Chris she has to get her priorities straight so she has more time to relax and enjoy. The truth is her efforts give me the luxury of being able to just do what I want. Is'nt that just like a guy!
Some disappointing experiences in Paris
Some of you may have been wondering why we haven't written about any restaurants since we arrived in Paris. The truth is, we (especially me) have been disappointed by our meals so far. (Paul did say that he enjoyed the home cooked presentations to date so that at least is a positive thing!) Nothing really bad, but nothing exceptional either. Chris tells me it's my fault because I've been lazy and we've just gone to some "old favorites". She's probably right, last year I spent several days researching and making a list of places to go ( I do restaurants; Christina does everything else). That said, some comments on our recent outings:
Au Moulin au Vent
20 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard F - 75005 PARIS
This has been a favorite for it's homey atmosphere, wonderful Grenouilles (Frog's Legs) and meat specialities. We took our friends from Canada (the Honsas) for a typically French meal that would appeal to their tastes. We were very disappointed; they lost our reservation and we had to sit outside (in the rain, albeit under an umbrella) with a view of the parking lot and the noise of street traffic. The good news is we were able to enjoy quiet conversation with good friends dispite the less then efficient service and the feeling that we had been forgetten about; Les Grenouilles were limp and lacking in garlic (although the Escargots were excellent) and the steak (the house speciality) was tasty but gristly. Chris and Vaclev had the lamb which was excellent.
Atelier Maitre Albert
1 rue Maître Albert F - 75005 PARIS
Another favorite. . they specialize in grilled items. I had Veal shank and Chris had the swordfish. Both were good, but not outstanding. The vegetables (grilled rice and cheese) was the best thing. We had a house Beaujolais (carafe) that was good. The service was excellent. This is an interesting spot filled mostly with out of town business people and a few locals. It's minimalist atmosphere may not make you feel like you're in Paris, but the service is friendly, the seating close but not too close and it's worth a trip.
Bofinger
5 rue de la Bastille F - 75004 PARIS
This is a famous Art Deco, Parisian, brasserie specializing in "Coquillage" (shellfish) and "Charcuterie" (Alsatian sausage). We took the Honsas here for a typical Parisian outing. The food was Ok, but nothing special. Chris loved her bulots and Vaclav got his oysters! We sat under the 'dome' and is downstairs--definitely a better place then en haut!
Rotisserie du Beaujolais
15 quai de la Tournelle F - 75005 PARIS
This new restaurant opened by the people from La Tour d'argent as a less costly alternative. It has become very popular in France now as a reaction to the cost of restaurants that satisfy the Michelin requirements for a top restaurant (Tour d'Argent averages about 200 E per person before wine). It specializes in rotisserie items. Both Chris and I had wild Duck, which was tasty but underdone; it did however come on a delicious bed of 'roissti' along with those lovely french green beans. We had another house Beaujolias that was very drinkable. The service here was substandard. We don't mind the slower pace in France but this was just inattentive. It is the only time I wish that I could have used the 'tip' to demonstrate our displeasure.
For the rest of today (and until I finish) I will be researching restaurants for the next five weeks. I don't get any peace until that's done!
Au Moulin au Vent
20 rue des Fossés-St-Bernard F - 75005 PARIS
This has been a favorite for it's homey atmosphere, wonderful Grenouilles (Frog's Legs) and meat specialities. We took our friends from Canada (the Honsas) for a typically French meal that would appeal to their tastes. We were very disappointed; they lost our reservation and we had to sit outside (in the rain, albeit under an umbrella) with a view of the parking lot and the noise of street traffic. The good news is we were able to enjoy quiet conversation with good friends dispite the less then efficient service and the feeling that we had been forgetten about; Les Grenouilles were limp and lacking in garlic (although the Escargots were excellent) and the steak (the house speciality) was tasty but gristly. Chris and Vaclev had the lamb which was excellent.
Atelier Maitre Albert
1 rue Maître Albert F - 75005 PARIS
Another favorite. . they specialize in grilled items. I had Veal shank and Chris had the swordfish. Both were good, but not outstanding. The vegetables (grilled rice and cheese) was the best thing. We had a house Beaujolais (carafe) that was good. The service was excellent. This is an interesting spot filled mostly with out of town business people and a few locals. It's minimalist atmosphere may not make you feel like you're in Paris, but the service is friendly, the seating close but not too close and it's worth a trip.
Bofinger
5 rue de la Bastille F - 75004 PARIS
This is a famous Art Deco, Parisian, brasserie specializing in "Coquillage" (shellfish) and "Charcuterie" (Alsatian sausage). We took the Honsas here for a typical Parisian outing. The food was Ok, but nothing special. Chris loved her bulots and Vaclav got his oysters! We sat under the 'dome' and is downstairs--definitely a better place then en haut!
Rotisserie du Beaujolais
15 quai de la Tournelle F - 75005 PARIS
This new restaurant opened by the people from La Tour d'argent as a less costly alternative. It has become very popular in France now as a reaction to the cost of restaurants that satisfy the Michelin requirements for a top restaurant (Tour d'Argent averages about 200 E per person before wine). It specializes in rotisserie items. Both Chris and I had wild Duck, which was tasty but underdone; it did however come on a delicious bed of 'roissti' along with those lovely french green beans. We had another house Beaujolias that was very drinkable. The service here was substandard. We don't mind the slower pace in France but this was just inattentive. It is the only time I wish that I could have used the 'tip' to demonstrate our displeasure.
For the rest of today (and until I finish) I will be researching restaurants for the next five weeks. I don't get any peace until that's done!
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)